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Autopapyrus · ZAZ Sens (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/zaz/sens/manual-transmission-diagnosis-and-repair/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

ZAZ Sens (1st generation): Manual Transmission Diagnosis and Repair

The ZAZ Sens with the MeMZ-307 engine has a five-speed manual transmission. Typical problems: whining in gear (bearing wear), grinding when shifting (synchronizer wear), popping out of gear (worn forks and sleeves), and oil leaks (axle shaft seals). The exact disassembly procedure for this particular transmission is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is a general work order. Check torque values and clearances against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 1-2 hours for diagnosis; 6-10 hours to remove, disassemble and reinstall the transmission Steps: 16

Parts

5
№Part
01 Manual transmission gear oil, GL-4
02 Manual transmission rebuild kit (shaft bearings, axle shaft seals, shift shaft seal, snap rings)
03 Synchronizer set (rings, sleeves)if gears pop out of mesh
04 Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing)replace whenever the transmission is opened
05 Shift cables or linkage rodsif there is play

Tools

11
  • lift or inspection pit
  • transmission jack (or a jack stand for supporting the transmission)
  • reliable body supports (jack stands)
  • socket and wrench set
  • torque wrench
  • bearing and snap ring pullers
  • press
  • snap ring pliers
  • syringe or pump for filling oil
  • case sealant
  • oil drain pan

Step by step

16 steps
  1. First, identify the fault. Check the oil level and condition: metal shavings or a milky color indicate internal wear. Take a test drive and note in which gears the whine or grinding appears and whether it goes away with the clutch pedal pressed. A whine that goes away with the clutch pressed in neutral points to the input shaft bearings. If the gears are hard to shift, check the clutch and the shift linkage first: transmission repair may not be needed.
  2. Rule out external causes: adjust or replace the clutch release mechanism, and check the shift linkage rods and the shift lever bushings and the engine/transmission mounts. A "bad transmission" often turns out to be the result of worn mounts or a worn clutch disc.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Raise the vehicle on a lift or place it over a pit, and secure it firmly on supports. Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  4. Drain the transmission oil by removing the drain plug. Remove the engine undercover (skid plate), if installed.
  5. Remove the starter, disconnect the wires of the reverse light switch and the speed sensor, and disconnect the clutch cable or linkage and the gear shift linkage.
  6. Disconnect the driveshafts (axle shafts) from the transmission (unbolt the joints from the flanges or pry out the inner joints). Hang the driveshafts from the body with wire; do not let them hang on the joints.
  7. Support the engine from below (a jack with a wooden block, or a support bar across the fenders), then remove the transmission mount and the crossmember if it is in the way.
  8. Place a jack under the transmission, remove the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine block, and remove the transmission by moving it back off the splines of the input shaft. Do not let the transmission hang on the input shaft: this will damage the clutch disc and the bearing.
  9. Inspect the clutch: disc, pressure plate, release bearing and flywheel. When the transmission is opened, replace the entire clutch kit.
  10. Secure the transmission on a workbench and disassemble it. Before disassembly, photograph the position of the parts and mark them. Disassemble in order: the case split, then the shafts, gears, and forks with sleeves. Replace all snap rings and seals with new ones.
  11. Inspection: replace gears with chipped or flaking teeth, synchronizers with worn cones (the ring should "brake" the gear), worn forks, and bearings with play or noise. Replace the axle shaft seals, the shift shaft seal and the gaskets in any case.
  12. Reassemble in reverse order, lubricating the parts with gear oil. Check that the shafts rotate freely and that all gears engage without binding. Degrease the case mating surface and apply a thin layer of sealant. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern; torque values are per the manufacturer's specifications.
  13. Apply a thin layer of grease to the input shaft splines (no excess) and install the transmission. Tighten the bolts that hold it to the engine with a torque wrench: for threads of this size, usually 40-60 N·m (30-44 lb-ft) (exact value per the specification). Tighten the transmission mount and the crossmember.
  14. Reconnect the driveshafts, starter, sensors, cables and linkage. Install the engine undercover.
  15. Fill with oil up to the lower edge of the fill hole. Tighten the drain plug (usually 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft) per the specification). Adjust the clutch release mechanism.
  16. Check: with the wheels off the ground, start the engine and engage all the gears one at a time, noting any noise. Then take a test drive of 10-15 km and check for leaks. Check the oil level after 1,000-1,500 km.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is difficult work that involves safety risks: the transmission is heavy, and the vehicle is on a lift
  • Do not get under a vehicle that is not secured on supports
  • If you have no experience disassembling transmissions and lack the necessary equipment (press, pullers), leave the disassembly to a specialist shop, and do the removal and installation yourself
  • If the problem is only in the clutch or the shift linkage, there is no need to remove the transmission