Autopapyrus · BMW X5 (G05)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/bmw/x5/replacing-the-tie-rods-and-tie-rod-ends-on-both-sides/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/bmw/x5/replacing-the-tie-rods-and-tie-rod-ends-on-both-sides/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
BMW X5 (G05): Replacing the tie rods and tie rod ends on both sides
The G05 has an electric power steering rack and a double-wishbone front suspension. The inner tie rod and the outer tie rod end work as a pair, so it makes sense to replace them together on both sides. I couldn't find the exact tightening torque for the tie rod-to-rack joint, or the design of the locking device for your trim, in publicly available service information. Below is the general procedure, with torque values given as ranges. A wheel alignment is required after the job.
Parts
5| № | Part | Alternatives |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Inner tie rod with joint, G05left and right | Lemförder, TRW, Meyle HD |
| 02 | Outer tie rod endleft and right | Lemförder, TRW, Meyle HD |
| 03 | Self-locking nutsnew | |
| 04 | Cotter pins or locking devicesif used | |
| 05 | Tie rod bootsincluded in the set |
Tools
9- lift, or jack with jack stands placed under the rocker panel pinch welds
- lug wrench
- torque wrench
- sockets and wrenches (mostly 16-24 mm, check on the car)
- ball joint separator or fork
- tie rod wrench (split or ratcheting type)
- hex or TORX bit to hold the stud while loosening the nut
- copper grease
- marker or paint
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 3 more.
See manuals →
Step by step
15 steps- Park the vehicle on level ground. If the car has air suspension, turn on lift mode or service mode so the suspension doesn't drop when the car is raised. Set the steering wheel straight and lock it in place. Loosen the wheel bolts before lifting.
- Raise the front axle and remove both front wheels. When reinstalling, tighten the wheel bolts to 140 N·m (103 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern.
- Remove the lower engine undercover if it blocks access to the steering rack. Inspect the rack boots and the joints. If a boot is torn and the rack is leaking or crunching, that is a separate problem, so tell your mechanic.
- Measure and record the position. Mark the position of the tie rod end on the threads of the inner tie rod with a marker, and count the turns as you loosen the locknut. This keeps the toe close to its original setting after the replacement, but it is only a temporary measure.
- Remove the nut from the tie rod end stud on the steering knuckle. Hold the stud with a hex or TORX bit. Press the stud out with a separator. Do not hit the knuckle with a hammer, to avoid damaging it and the boot.
- Loosen the locknut and unscrew the tie rod end from the old inner tie rod, counting the turns. If the inner tie rod and the end are being replaced together, you can do this step on the bench after removing the inner tie rod.
- Remove the inner tie rod from the rack: take off the rack boot and clamps as the design requires, then unscrew the tie rod with the special wrench while holding the rack against turning. Be careful not to damage the rack shaft or the threaded joint.
- Clean the mating surfaces. Install the new inner tie rod on the rack. The tightening torque for this joint depends on the locking device design: typically 80-120 N·m (59-89 lb-ft), but for your rack, use the value from the manufacturer's service manual, and be sure to secure the locking device.
- Thread the new tie rod end on by the same number of turns as the old one, using your marks as a guide. Tighten the locknut only lightly for now. It is tightened fully after the toe is adjusted.
- Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle. Tighten the new self-locking nut to approximately 50-80 N·m (37-59 lb-ft); for your specific version, check the service manual. The boots must sit evenly, without distortion.
- Repeat on the other side. Replace the rack clamps and boots if they are damaged.
- Install the undercover and the wheels. Tighten the wheel bolts to 140 N·m (103 lb-ft). Lower the car onto its wheels.
- Bounce the car up and down to settle the suspension. Then tighten the tie rod end locknuts at the set toe, approximately 40-60 N·m (30-44 lb-ft) (check the service manual).
- Have the wheel alignment done on an alignment rack without fail. If the car has driver assistance systems (camera or radar) that are sensitive to steering wheel position, have them calibrated by a specialist with access to diagnostic equipment.
- Take a test drive. The steering wheel should be straight, the car should not pull to either side, and there should be no unusual knocking. Check the tightness again after 100-200 km (60-125 miles).
Common mistakes and warnings
- Steering is a safety-critical system
- If you lack experience and the exact tightening torque for your rack, leave the job to a repair shop
- A poorly secured tie rod can lead to loss of steering control
- Always replace self-locking nuts with new ones
- Without a toe adjustment, the tires wear out very quickly and the car will handle unpredictably
- If the car is equipped with rear-wheel steering (Integral Active Steering), this job doesn't affect it, but the alignment angles must be checked on both axles