Autopapyrus · Brilliance V5 (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/brilliance/v5/tie-rod-end-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/brilliance/v5/tie-rod-end-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Brilliance V5 (1st generation): Tie Rod End Replacement
The tie rod end is the joint at the end of the tie rod that connects it to the steering knuckle. Signs of wear: a knock or play when turning the wheel while parked, a torn boot, a "floating" steering wheel, and uneven tire wear. The exact procedure for this model and engine is not documented in open sources. Below is the general principle, which is the same for most front-wheel-drive cars with a rack-and-pinion steering system. Check the tightening torques against the manufacturer's service manual.
Part
- 🔩 Tie rod end (left and right; the threads are mirrored, so do not mix up the sides), and a steering rack boot if needed. The exact OE number for the V5 is not confirmed, so choose the part by its name and thread size, and compare the old tie rod end with the new one
Step by step
14 steps- Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug nuts by half a turn, lift the front of the car, and remove the wheel. Set the car on jack stands.
- Apply penetrating oil to the tie rod threads and the jam nut, and let it soak for 10-15 minutes. Clean the threads with a wire brush.
- Check for play: shake the tie rod end by hand or with a pry bar. If the boot is intact and there is no play, the knock may come from something else (ball joint, sway bar link, steering rack).
- Use a marker to make a reference mark on the tie rod threads at the edge of the tie rod end. You can also count the number of turns as you unscrew it. This preserves your camber and toe settings.
- Loosen the jam nut on the tie rod end, holding the tie rod with a second wrench on its flats so you do not turn the rack. Do not unscrew it completely.
- Remove the cotter pin (if there is one) and unscrew the stud nut of the tie rod end. The nut may be self-locking, in which case it is better to replace it with a new one.
- Press the stud out of the steering knuckle with a separator. If you do not have a separator, hold the knuckle on one side and strike the knuckle eye with a hammer, not the threads of the stud. Protect the threads first by threading the nut on.
- Unscrew the tie rod end from the tie rod, counting the turns, and compare it with the new one. The size and type of the stud must match.
- Clean the tie rod threads and screw on the new tie rod end by the same number of turns, up to the mark. Inspect the rack boot and replace it if it is torn.
- Insert the stud into the knuckle and tighten the nut. The tightening torque is approximately 30-50 N·m (22-37 lb-ft); confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual. Secure it with a new cotter pin or a self-locking nut.
- Tighten the jam nut while keeping the tie rod end from turning. Make sure the boot is not twisted.
- Install the wheel, lower the car, and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. Check the lug nut torque in the service manual.
- Get a wheel alignment right after the replacement. The marks only give a rough initial setting. You can drive on them only as far as the nearest repair shop.
- Take a test drive at low speed: the steering wheel should be straight, with no knocking, and it should turn without binding when turning in place.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Steering affects safety. If you are not confident working on suspension, take the car to a repair shop. Do not work under a car supported only by a jack; use jack stands. Do not drive with a worn tie rod end: the stud can come out of the knuckle and the car will become uncontrollable. Be sure to get a wheel alignment after the replacement, or the tires will wear out quickly.