Autopapyrus · Changan CS75 1.8 Turbo (2019)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/changan/cs75/starter-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/changan/cs75/starter-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Changan CS75 1.8 Turbo (2019): Starter Replacement
On the 1.8 Turbo, the starter is mounted on the clutch housing (transmission bell housing) on the engine block side. It is held by bolts and connected by two wires: the main power cable (from the battery positive terminal) and the control wire for the solenoid. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is the general principle, based on a typical layout. Access to the starter may require removing the underbody shield and part of the intake duct.
Parts
3| № | Part |
|---|---|
| 01 | Starter motor for Changan CS75 1.8 Turbo (new or remanufactured) |
| 02 | Starter terminal nutsif worn |
| 03 | Starter power cable lugif worn |
Tools
10- Socket set and ratchet with extensions and a universal joint
- 10
- 12
- 13 and 14 mm sockets
- torque wrench
- jack and jack stands (or a lift)
- pry bar
- flashlight
- multimeter
- battery charger or a jump pack (optional)
Step by step
13 steps- Make sure the starter is really the cause: check the battery charge (at least 12.4 V at rest) and the condition of the terminals and ground connections. If you hear the relay click when you turn the key or press the button but the engine does not turn, the starter is suspect. If there is complete silence, first check the fuse, the starter relay and the start interlock signals (selector lever in P or N, brake or clutch pedal pressed).
- Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake, and on an automatic put the selector in P. If you will be working from underneath, raise the front of the car on a lift or jack stands. Do not work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait a few minutes so the capacitors in the control units can discharge. Do not disconnect the terminal with the ignition on.
- If necessary, remove the plastic underbody shield and any parts in the way: the intake duct or pipe, wiring harness mounts and the starter heat shield. Take photos of the wire and bracket layout before disassembly.
- Remove the protective cap from the starter solenoid terminal. Undo the nut on the main power cable and remove the cable. Disconnect the control wire connector or terminal: press the locking tab first, then pull on the connector, not on the wire.
- While supporting the starter by hand (it is heavy, 3-5 kg (6.6-11 lb)), remove the mounting bolts, usually two or three. One of them is often the hardest to reach, so use a universal joint and a long extension. Do not let the starter fall onto the hoses and harnesses.
- Carefully maneuver the starter out, turning it so the pinion gear clears the opening in the clutch housing. If it will not come out, check whether any brackets or an unremoved harness are still in the way.
- Compare the new starter with the old one: flange, number and position of the mounting holes, drive pinion teeth (tooth count and module), and terminal positions. If the old starter had locating dowels (centering pins), transfer them to the new one.
- Clean the mounting surface and the ground contact surface of dirt and corrosion. A good ground at this spot requires bare, clean metal.
- Install the starter. The pinion should slide freely into the opening in the clutch housing. Thread in the mounting bolts by hand, then tighten them with a torque wrench to specification: for M10 bolts this is typically 35-50 N·m (26-37 lb-ft) (check the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual). Tighten the power cable nut on the solenoid terminal moderately, typically 8-12 N·m (6-9 lb-ft), or you may strip the stud.
- Connect the main power cable and the control wire, fit the protective cap, and secure the harnesses in their original locations. Reinstall the shield, the ducts and the underbody shield.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition on and start the engine, and check that the starter engages firmly, without grinding or dragging. Reset the clock and the radio settings if they were erased.
- If the engine does not start, check the terminal tightness, the ground connections, and the voltage at the control terminal while cranking (it should be close to battery voltage).
Common mistakes and warnings
- Do not run the starter until it is mounted, and do not let the main power terminal touch the housing: this causes a short circuit and burns
- Do not work on live wires, and always disconnect the negative battery terminal
- For a remanufactured starter, insist on a warranty and a verified return of the old unit (core)
- If the car has a start-stop system and a heavy-duty starter, install only a starter rated for that duty
- If you have no experience working under a car, it is better to go to a repair shop