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Autopapyrus · Chevrolet Rezzo (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chevrolet/rezzo/rear-shock-absorber-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chevrolet Rezzo (1st generation): Rear Shock Absorber Replacement

The Rezzo's rear suspension is semi-independent: a beam axle on trailing arms, with a separate coil spring and a telescopic shock absorber. The shock's lower end is attached to the beam or trailing arm with a single bolt. The upper end is attached to the body on the rod's threaded stud. The shock can be removed without disassembling the spring. The exact design of the upper mount and the torque specifications for this model are not confirmed in publicly available sources. The general procedure is below. Check the torque values against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours per pair Steps: 12 Tools: jack and two jack stands, wheel chocks, lug wrench, socket and wrench set (approximately 17-21 mm), open-end or box-end wrench for the shock rod, penetrating oil, torque wrench, pry bar, shop rags

Part

  • 🔩 rear suspension shock absorber, left and right (gas-charged, replace as a pair), dust boot with bump stop, and rod mounting bushings (upper mounts)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, put it in gear, and chock the front wheels. Loosen the rear wheel nuts half a turn.
  2. Raise the rear of the car and set it on jack stands under the rocker panels or the body's reinforced lift points. Remove the wheel.
  3. Spray penetrating oil on the lower shock mounting bolt and on the rod nut at the top. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
  4. Support the trailing arm or beam with a jack. It should slightly unload the suspension so the spring does not stretch the shock and the bolt is not under binding load. Do not apply heavy pressure: the spring and the beam must not shift.
  5. In the trunk or cargo area, fold back the trim or open the access cover above the upper shock mount. While holding the rod with a wrench on its flats, remove the upper nut. The rod must not turn.
  6. Remove the lower mounting bolt. If necessary, lower or raise the arm slightly with the jack so the bolt comes out without binding.
  7. Pull the shock out downward. Inspect the rubber bushings in the lower eye, the upper mount bushings, and the bump stop. Replace any parts that are worn, cracked, or flattened.
  8. Before installation, bleed the new shock. Hold it upright and fully compress and extend the rod 3-4 times. This removes air from the working chamber.
  9. Slide the dust boot and bump stop onto the rod, then insert the rod into the upper hole in the body with the bushings and washers in the same order as on the old shock. Thread the upper nut on lightly, hand-tight.
  10. Align the lower eye with the mounting hole, use the jack to raise the arm to the proper position, and insert the bolt. Final-tighten the lower bolt under load, with the wheels on the ground or with the arm supported at its normal ride height. If you tighten it while the suspension hangs freely, the bushing will be twisted in operation and will fail quickly.
  11. Install the wheel, lower the car, and tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to the specified torque (for this class of vehicle, typically about 100 N·m (74 lb-ft)). Tighten the lower shock bolt and the upper rod nut to the manufacturer's specified torque.
  12. Repeat the procedure on the other side and refit the trim. Take a test drive of 5-10 km and check for knocking noises. Re-torque the wheel nuts after 50-100 km.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Replace shock absorbers only in pairs on an axle, otherwise handling and stability will suffer. Do not remove both shocks at the same time: the beam must not be left hanging on the springs. Suspension affects safety, so if you have no experience working with jack stands and a jack, have a repair shop do the replacement. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
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