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Autopapyrus · Citroën Xsara Picasso 1.6 16V TU5JP4 (2008)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/citroen/xsara-picasso/fuel-tank-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Citroën Xsara Picasso 1.6 16V TU5JP4 (2008): Fuel Tank Replacement

The tank is located under the floor in the rear of the vehicle and is held by two metal straps. The fuel module (pump, level sender, filter) sits inside the tank. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so this is a general outline of the work. Verify the location and number of fasteners visually on the vehicle.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours Steps: 14

Parts

8
№Part
01 Fuel tank assembly (gasoline, Citroen Xsara Picasso), approx. 55 L (14.5 gal)
02 Fuel module seal ringif needed
03 Fuel module locking ringif needed
04 Fuel hose clampsif needed
05 Fuel line quick-connect fittingsif needed
06 Tank straps with hardwareif needed
07 Rubber bushingsif needed
08 Fuel filler capif needed

Tools

8
  • lift or inspection pit
  • hydraulic jack or transmission jack for supporting the tank
  • socket set and wrenches
  • pliers
  • screwdrivers
  • quick-connect fuel line disconnect tool
  • hose and containers for draining
  • fire extinguisher
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, away from open flames and sparks. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby. It is best to do this job with the tank nearly empty.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Relieve the fuel system pressure: remove the fuel pump relay or fuse, start the engine and let it stall. Crank the engine with the starter for 2-3 seconds.
  3. Drain the remaining fuel. The easiest way is to pump it out through the filler neck with a hose and hand pump into an approved container. If draining through the module is not possible, pump the fuel out after removing the module.
  4. Raise the vehicle and securely support it on stands. Remove the rear wheel or wheels if they get in the way. Remove the underbody shields if fitted.
  5. Disconnect the filler neck and the vent hose from the tank. To do this, loosen the clamps and carefully slide the hoses off. If possible, first remove the wheel arch liner or the filler flap to gain access to the mounts.
  6. Place a jack or stand under the tank with a wide wooden pad to support the tank from below.
  7. Disconnect the electrical connector of the fuel module and the quick-connect fuel lines (supply, and return if fitted). Release the connections with a proper disconnect tool, not with force. If the connectors are not accessible, first lower the tank by 5-10 cm (2-4 in) and reach them from above. Plug the line ends to keep dirt out.
  8. Remove the bolts of the tank straps while holding the tank. Carefully lower it and pull it out from under the vehicle. Make sure it does not catch the exhaust system, brake lines or the parking brake cable.
  9. If you are replacing the whole tank, transfer the fuel module (pump, level sender, filter), the vent valves and all plastic parts from the filler neck to the new tank. Replace the module seal ring. Tighten the locking ring to the position indicated by the marks, as it was on the old tank.
  10. Inspect the rubber pads between the tank and the body, the tank straps and their mounts. Replace them if corroded or damaged.
  11. Raise the new tank into position with the jack. Install the straps and tighten their mounting bolts. Approximate tightening torque is 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft); get the exact value from the manufacturer's specifications. Tighten evenly, without skewing.
  12. Connect the fuel lines (a click is required, then pull on them to check), the electrical connector, the filler neck and the vent hose. Tighten the clamps. Install the underbody shields and wheels, and tighten the wheels with a torque wrench to 85 N·m (63 lb-ft).
  13. Add 5-10 L (1.3-2.6 gal) of fuel. Reinstall the fuel pump relay or fuse and connect the battery. Turn the ignition on and off several times so the pump builds pressure. Check all connections for leaks. Start the engine, let it run, and inspect the tank, filler neck and lines again.
  14. If the Check Engine light comes on, check for fault codes with an OBD scan tool and clear them. If the fuel level reads incorrectly, check the level sender connection and the float relay.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job involves gasoline, which is flammable, and its vapors are explosive
  • Do not smoke, do not use tools that spark, and avoid working near open flames or electrical appliances
  • The fuel system may only be reassembled with sound seals and retainers
  • A gasoline leak is dangerous
  • If you have no experience working on fuel systems, it is better to have a repair shop do the replacement