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Autopapyrus · FAW Vita (1st Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/faw/vita/brake-master-cylinder-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

FAW Vita (1st Generation): Brake Master Cylinder Replacement

The master cylinder is mounted with two nuts to the vacuum brake booster on the firewall on the driver's side. Signs of failure: the pedal sinks to the floor with no visible leaks, the fluid level in the reservoir drops, and there are fluid leaks on the booster and under the pedal. This job involves a safety system. A detailed procedure for this specific model is not documented in public service materials, so the steps below describe the general principle for cars with this layout. Check the details against the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2.5 hours (including brake system bleeding) Steps: 14

Parts

4
№PartAlternatives
01 Brake master cylinder assembly (dual-circuit, for vacuum booster) ATE, TRW, Lucas
02 DOT 4 brake fluid1-1.5 L (1.1-1.6 qt)
03 Master cylinder reservoir cap with sealif needed
04 Master cylinder repair kitif needed

Tools

8
  • set of open-end and box-end wrenches
  • flare nut (line) wrench for brake lines (10 and 12 mm)
  • socket set with ratchet and torque wrench
  • syringe or turkey baster for removing fluid
  • clear tubing and a container for bleeding
  • clean rags
  • plugs for brake lines
  • helper

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Cover the fender, plastic parts, and wiring around the master cylinder with rags. Brake fluid damages paint.
  3. Remove the fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or baster. Disconnect the fluid level sensor connector in the reservoir cap. If the reservoir is removable and sits in rubber grommets, remove it after the cylinder has been removed.
  4. Place a container and rags under the cylinder. Use a flare nut wrench to loosen the brake line fittings on the master cylinder body. Do not use a regular open-end wrench, because it will round off the flats. Immediately plug the line ends with plugs or caps.
  5. If a clutch hydraulic hose runs to the reservoir or the master cylinder, mark it and carefully remove it.
  6. Remove the two nuts that secure the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. Carefully pull the cylinder forward along the pushrod axis without tilting it. Do not let fluid get on the booster housing.
  7. Compare the new and old cylinders: diameter, mounting flange, and fitting positions. Transfer the cap and level sensor if they are supplied separately. Check the O-ring or seal on the flange.
  8. Install the new master cylinder onto the booster studs, keeping it exactly in line so the pushrod enters the piston without binding. Tighten the mounting nuts evenly to approximately 10-20 N·m (7-15 lb-ft). Check the exact value against the manufacturer's service manual. Do not overtighten.
  9. Start the brake line threads by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with the flare nut wrench to approximately 14-18 N·m (10-13 lb-ft). Reconnect the level sensor connector, the clutch hose (if removed), and the battery terminal.
  10. Top up with fresh DOT 4 fluid to the MAX mark. If the new master cylinder calls for bench bleeding beforehand, do it. To do this, disconnect the lines from the new cylinder, fit short pieces of hose onto the ports, and route the free ends back into the reservoir. Bleed the cylinder by pushing the piston rod with a screwdriver until the bubbles disappear.
  11. Bleed the entire brake system with a helper. Order: start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder, then the rest, usually right rear, left rear, right front, left front. If the car has a rear brake pressure regulator, check the manufacturer's service manual for the bleeding order. Keep watching the reservoir level, and do not let it drop below the minimum.
  12. Keep bleeding until fluid without bubbles comes out of each caliper or wheel cylinder. The pedal should feel firm, with no sinking. After bleeding, check the fluid level.
  13. Inspect all connections for leaks with the pedal pressed. Then start the engine. The pedal should drop slightly, which shows the vacuum booster is working.
  14. Do a test drive at low speed on an empty lot: check pedal travel, braking effectiveness, and smoothness of deceleration. If the pedal is soft, bleed the system again.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The brake system is critical to safety
  • If you have no experience with brake hydraulics, have a repair shop do the replacement and bleeding
  • Do not drive the car with a soft pedal or fluid leaks
  • Do not mix DOT 4 with silicone-based fluids (DOT 5)
  • Dispose of old fluid separately, because it is toxic and damages paint
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