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Autopapyrus · Geely Cityray 1.5T 181 hp (2024)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/geely/cityray/spark-plug-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Geely Cityray 1.5T 181 hp (2024): Spark Plug Replacement

On a 1.5T turbo engine the spark plugs work under higher load, so they are replaced on schedule, usually every 30,000-60,000 km (check your service book for the exact interval). A detailed procedure for this specific engine is not documented in open service materials. Below is the general principle for an inline 4-cylinder engine with individual ignition coils. Check the details against the manufacturer's maintenance schedule.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 12 Tools: 16 mm spark plug socket with a rubber insert or magnet (check the size for your plug when you remove it), extension, ratchet, low-range torque wrench, socket or Torx bit for the coil mounting fasteners, compressed air or an air duster can, thin screwdriver with an insulated handle, feeler gauge

Part

  • 🔩 Set of 4 iridium spark plugs recommended by the manufacturer for this 1.5T turbo engine (the exact part number is not publicly confirmed, so select by catalog for your engine). Turbo engines use a colder heat range and a smaller gap

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Work on a cold engine. Turn the ignition off and disconnect the negative battery terminal if you plan to unplug connectors.
  2. Remove the decorative plastic engine cover. It is usually held on by clips or a few bolts. If air ducts or shrouds are in the way, move them aside.
  3. Label the coils by cylinder. Disconnect each coil's electrical connector: press the locking tab and pull on the connector body.
  4. Remove the coil fastener (bolt or nut) and carefully pull the coil straight up, rocking it gently along its axis. Do not pry it out with a screwdriver.
  5. Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air so debris does not fall into the cylinder. This step is mandatory.
  6. Unscrew the plug with the rubber-insert socket, keeping the socket exactly in line with the plug. Replace one plug at a time so you do not mix up the coil order.
  7. Inspect the old plug. Carbon buildup, oil, or a melted electrode points to a problem: oil in the well, a faulty coil, or detonation (knock).
  8. Check the gap of the new plug with a feeler gauge. For this engine, see the maintenance schedule or the plug packaging for the specified value. Do not bend the side electrode on iridium plugs, because they are thin and fragile.
  9. Thread the new plug in by hand for several turns to avoid cross-threading the aluminum cylinder head. Then tighten it with a torque wrench. The torque for M14 plugs is usually in the range of 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft); take the exact value from the maintenance schedule. Do not overtighten.
  10. Inspect the coil's rubber boot for cracks and signs of arcing. It is better to replace a damaged coil. Seat the coil on the plug until it clicks into place, tighten the fastener to a moderate torque (usually 5-10 N·m (44-89 lb-in)), and plug in the connector.
  11. Repeat for the remaining cylinders. Reinstall the cover and the negative battery terminal.
  12. Start the engine, listen for smooth running, and make sure there are no fault codes or a flashing Check Engine light. After the battery is disconnected, the trip computer and window settings may reset, which is normal.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not use spark plugs with the wrong heat range: on a turbo engine this leads to detonation and piston damage. Do not let debris get into the cylinders, and do not overtighten the plugs, or you risk stripping the threads in the head. If a plug is seized and turns hard, do not force it: first let penetrating oil work, otherwise take it to a repair shop.