Autopapyrus · Geely Emgrand X7 (Second Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/geely/emgrand-x7/rear-muffler-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/geely/emgrand-x7/rear-muffler-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Geely Emgrand X7 (Second Generation): Rear Muffler Replacement
On the Emgrand X7 with the 2.4 engine, the rear muffler is attached to the middle section by a clamp or flange and hangs on rubber hangers under the floor. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so below is the general principle for this type of exhaust layout. Determine the specific connection type (clamp or flange) by inspecting it from underneath.
Parts
4| № | Part | Alternatives |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Rear muffler, Emgrand X7 2.4 L (resonator/main muffler, rear section) | Polmostrow, Walker, Bosal |
| 02 | Joint gasket or sealing ringif flanged design | |
| 03 | Mounting bolts and nuts | |
| 04 | Rubber exhaust hangersreplace together with the muffler |
Tools
7- lift or inspection pit
- socket and wrench set (usually 13-17 mm)
- penetrating oil
- pry bar or special exhaust hanger removal tool
- wire brush
- high-temperature exhaust joint paste
- safety glasses and gloves
Step by step
13 steps- Let the exhaust system cool down completely: it gets very hot after driving. Put the vehicle on a lift or over a pit, on a level surface. If you work with jacks, use sturdy jack stands, not just the jack.
- Inspect the rear of the exhaust and identify the connection to the middle section (a clamp or a flange with two or three bolts) and the position of the rubber hangers, usually two or three.
- Apply penetrating oil to the threads of the connection bolts and nuts and wait 10-15 minutes. Do not force rusted fasteners; heat them and repeat the oil treatment.
- Support the muffler by hand, or with a helper or a stand, so it does not fall when you remove the hangers.
- Remove the rubber hangers from the hooks by prying them off with a pry bar or a removal tool. If the rubber is torn or cracked, replace the hangers with new ones.
- Loosen the clamp or remove the flange bolts and pull the muffler out of the joint. If it is seized to the pipe, rock it around its axis. If necessary, carefully heat it with a torch, keeping wiring, fuel and brake lines, plastic shields and the fuel tank well away.
- Lower the old muffler and take it out from under the vehicle.
- Use a wire brush to clean rust and carbon deposits from the mating surface of the middle section pipe, then apply high-temperature exhaust joint paste. Replace the old gasket or ring with a new one.
- Compare the new muffler with the old one: the length, the position of the pipes and hanger hooks, and the shape of the tip must match.
- Mount the new muffler on the hangers and connect it to the pipe without final tightening. Align the system so that the gap to the body, floor, bumper and fuel tank is even all around, with no contact.
- Tighten the clamp or flange bolts evenly, in a crisscross pattern. The tightening torque for M8 is usually 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft), and for the clamp 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft). Check the manufacturer's specification for the exact value.
- Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks (hissing, wisps of smoke at the joint) and for unusual vibrations. If necessary, retighten the joint with the system cold.
- Take a test drive, then inspect again for knocking, contact with the body, and noise level. Check the tightness of the fasteners after a few days of driving.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Work only on a cool exhaust system, and never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack
- A leaking exhaust joint is dangerous: gases containing carbon monoxide can get into the cabin, so do not drive the vehicle with a leak
- If the fasteners are seized and you do not have access to a lift, take the vehicle to a repair shop