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Autopapyrus · Haval Dargo 2.0 Turbo GW4C20B (2024)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/haval/dargo/turbocharger-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Haval Dargo 2.0 Turbo GW4C20B (2024): Turbocharger Replacement

The turbocharger on the GW4C20B bolts to the exhaust manifold and has an oil feed, an oil drain and coolant connections. A detailed factory procedure for this model is not documented in public sources, so the steps below describe the general principle of replacing a turbo on a transverse-mounted turbocharged engine. The order and access may differ, so verify as you go.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 4-7 hours Steps: 18

Parts

7
№Part
01 Complete turbocharger for (with actuator or boost control valve)
02 Turbo gasket and seal kit (exhaust flange, oil feed, oil drain)
03 Turbo mounting hardware (self-locking nuts and studs)
04 Oil and coolant line sealing washers
05 Engine oil
06 Oil filter
07 Coolant

Tools

10
  • Socket and wrench set (8-19 mm, including Torx sockets)
  • extensions and universal joint
  • torque wrench
  • hose clamp pliers
  • hose retainer release tool
  • container for coolant and oil
  • penetrating oil for exhaust threads
  • plugs for capping lines
  • clean rags
  • syringe or container for priming the turbo with oil

Step by step

18 steps
  1. First, determine the cause of the failure: exhaust smoke, loss of power, whistling, oil in the intercooler hoses, boost-related fault codes. Check the intake air path for leaks, the intercooler hoses, the blow-off (boost relief) valve, the actuator and the oil level. Do not replace the turbo until you have ruled out these causes.
  2. If the turbo failed with metal debris or oil getting into the air path, find the root cause: a blocked oil feed, a clogged screen, a coked drain, a low oil level, or severe engine wear. Otherwise the new turbo will fail quickly.
  3. Let the engine cool down completely. Turn off the ignition and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  4. Remove the engine undercover (skid plate). Drain the coolant into a clean container if the turbo's coolant inlet and outlet lines are below the fluid level. Drain the oil if the turbo's oil drain returns to the oil pan below the oil level.
  5. Remove the engine cover, the air filter and its housing, and the intake air duct on the inlet side. Disconnect the pipes from the turbo to the intercooler and to the intake manifold. Disconnect sensor connectors only after photographing their positions. Plug the open ports so dirt cannot get inside.
  6. Remove the turbo heat shield and the exhaust manifold heat shields if they block access.
  7. Remove the sensors and wiring harnesses attached to the turbo: the oxygen sensor (lambda sensor) upstream or downstream of the catalytic converter, the boost pressure sensor, and the temperature sensor if necessary. Do not pull on the wires; release the connector housings instead.
  8. Disconnect the turbo oil feed and drain lines and the coolant lines. Plug the open ports. Remove and discard the old gaskets and washers; always install new seals.
  9. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the turbo. Exhaust fasteners are often seized, so soak the threads with penetrating oil several hours before the job and loosen them carefully to avoid snapping the studs.
  10. Unbolt the turbo from the exhaust manifold (or from its mounting on the engine, if it is a separate unit). Support the assembly so it does not fall, then remove it through the engine bay or from below, whichever is more convenient in your case.
  11. Clean the flange mating surfaces of any old gasket residue and carbon deposits. Inspect the studs and replace them if they are damaged or corroded. Flush or blow out the oil feed line, make sure oil flows freely, and replace the line if you suspect coking. Check the drain line for damage and free flow.
  12. Compare the new turbo with the old one: flanges, pipe positions, actuator, fittings. Before installation, pour clean engine oil into the turbo's oil inlet and turn the rotor by hand several times to lubricate the bearings.
  13. Install the new turbo with new gaskets. Tighten the nuts and bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 passes with a torque wrench. The torque for M8 fasteners on the exhaust flange is typically in the range of 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft); verify the exact value for your engine in the manufacturer's specifications. Use only new self-locking nuts.
  14. Reconnect the oil feed and drain lines, coolant lines, downpipe, sensors, heat shields and air ducts in reverse order. Install clamps and retainers in their original positions, and make sure the hoses are not kinked and do not touch hot parts.
  15. Add fresh oil, replace the oil filter, and fill the coolant to the correct level. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
  16. Before the first start, disable the ignition and crank the engine with the starter for 10-15 seconds to build oil pressure in the turbo. If you cannot disable the ignition or fuel delivery, remove the fuel pump fuse or connector (confirm the fuse location in the under-hood fuse box). Then start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
  17. Check for oil and coolant leaks at the connections, exhaust leaks at the flanges (a characteristic hissing sound and exhaust smell), and the gauge readings. Bleed the air from the cooling system: warm the engine up until the thermostat opens, then top up the coolant to the correct level.
  18. Take a test drive of 15-20 minutes, increasing engine speed gradually and avoiding heavy load during the first few kilometers. Check that there are no fault codes, that power delivery is steady, and that there is no smoke. Recheck the oil and coolant levels after the engine has cooled down.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is a difficult job: the exhaust system gets extremely hot, there is a lot of seized hardware, and there is a risk of damaging studs and sensors
  • If you lack experience, it is better to leave this job to a repair shop
  • Do not install a used turbo without checking its condition, as it may fail soon
  • Do not start the engine with an unprimed turbo (without oil poured in), and do not let foreign objects get into the air path: even small debris or dirt can destroy a new turbo
  • If the cause of failure is oil starvation, coking or metal debris, eliminate it before installing the new turbo