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Autopapyrus · Hyundai Getz (Click) 1.4 16V G4EE (2008)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/hyundai/getz/front-engine-mount-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Hyundai Getz (Click) 1.4 16V G4EE (2008): Front Engine Mount Replacement

The Getz with the G4EE engine sits on three to four mounts: the right upper mount (hydraulic or rubber), the left mount on the transmission, and a lower torque rod that damps engine rocking. Signs of wear: vibration at idle, clunks when pulling away or lifting off the throttle, and jerking during gear changes. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in public service materials, so below is the general principle based on the typical design. First determine which mount is actually worn.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-2 hours Steps: 8

Part

  • 🔩 front engine mount (lower torque rod/stabilizer link, also called the rear/front "reaction" mount depending on what you call the part) or right upper engine mount (the mount on the timing belt side). Part names: "engine mount, front (torque rod with bushing)" and "engine mount, right (upper mount)". Exact part number for your trim is not clearly confirmed in public sources, so choose the part by name and by visually comparing it with the old one

Tools

7
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

8 steps
  1. Determine which mount you are replacing. The lower torque rod (front/rear "reaction" mount) attaches to the subframe and to the engine or transmission, and is usually accessible from below. The right upper mount is on the right side, under the side timing belt cover. Inspect the rubber for cracks and separation. Have a helper shift into D/R or first gear with the engine running and the parking brake and brake pedal applied, and watch how the engine rocks.
  2. Park the car on level ground, apply the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. If the work is done from below, jack up the front and set the car on jack stands. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  3. Remove the engine undercover and, if necessary, the air intake duct or air filter housing if they block access. Treat the fastener threads with penetrating oil.
  4. For the lower torque rod: if necessary, lightly jack up the engine to relieve the load. Remove the bolt at the subframe and the bolt at the engine or transmission, then remove the rod. The bolts often seize, so use a long breaker bar and heat them if necessary. Do not try to press out or knock out the rubber part. Replace the whole rod if it is sold as an assembly.
  5. For the right upper mount: place a jack under the oil pan with a wooden block and lightly support the engine without lifting it. Remove the nuts or bolts securing the mount to the body and to the engine bracket, and remove the bracket if necessary. Raise the engine a few millimeters, just enough to remove the mount. Do not press on the plastic transmission pan or the oil pan without a spacer.
  6. Compare the new part with the old one for dimensions, mounting holes and bracket orientation. Clean the mounting surfaces of dirt and rust.
  7. Install the new mount and thread in all bolts by hand without fully tightening them. Then lower the engine onto the mount and tighten the fasteners to final torque with the engine's weight on the mount (engine lowered). This is important for rubber life. Torque for these bolts is usually in the range of about 40-65 N·m (30-48 lb-ft) for M10-M12, but check the manufacturer's specifications for the exact value at each location.
  8. Reinstall the undercover, air duct and battery. Start the engine and check for vibration at idle, shift into gear while stationary, and listen for clunks when lifting off the throttle and pulling away. Re-torque the fasteners after 100-200 km (60-120 miles).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not work under the car or engine when it is supported only by a jack
  • Use jack stands
  • Do not tighten the mount bolts while the engine is hanging, or the rubber will be preloaded and will tear quickly
  • If you notice oil or coolant leaks along with the worn mount, or if the mount is located near the timing belt, be careful not to shift the pulleys or damage the belt
  • If you are unsure of your experience, take the job to a repair shop, because improper engine support is dangerous