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Autopapyrus · Kia Rio 1.4 CVVT (2009)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/rio/brake-master-cylinder-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Rio 1.4 CVVT (2009): Brake Master Cylinder Replacement

On the Rio JB with the 1.4 CVVT engine, the brake master cylinder is mounted to the brake booster with two studs. The procedure requires completely emptying the reservoir, disconnecting the brake lines, and then bleeding the system to remove air, which is mandatory.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2 hours Steps: 16 Tools: 12 mm socket, 11 mm flare nut (line) wrench (double-ended open-end or split), pliers, medical syringe or rubber bulb (turkey baster), container for drained fluid, line plugs (or plastic wrap and a rubber band)

Part

  • 🔩 Hyundai-Kia brake master cylinder 585101G110 (aftermarket equivalents CIFAM 202-823, TRW PMK586). DOT 4 brake fluid (1-1.5 L (1.1-1.6 qt) for bleeding the system)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 6 more. See manuals →

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
  2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and use a medical syringe or rubber bulb to draw out the fluid down to the bottom.
  3. Press the locking tab on the brake fluid level sensor connector at the reservoir and disconnect the connector from the sensor.
  4. Using an 11 mm flare nut wrench, unscrew the four nuts securing the brake lines to the cylinder (two on the brake booster side, two on the side). Move the lines aside and plug the ends (wrap them in plastic and secure with a rubber band, or use line plugs) to prevent residual fluid from leaking out and dirt from getting in.
  5. If the car has a manual transmission, disconnect the fluid supply hose to the clutch slave cylinder (it is connected to the brake master cylinder reservoir through a tee or a shared reservoir, depending on the trim level).
  6. Using a 12 mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the master cylinder to the brake booster studs.
  7. Remove the master cylinder together with the reservoir.
  8. Install the new master cylinder onto the brake booster studs and thread on the mounting nuts by hand.
  9. Tighten the cylinder mounting nuts to 12-18 N·m (9-13 lb-ft). The exact value for this model is not documented in open sources, so tighten the nuts evenly in a crisscross pattern until snug, without excessive force, so you do not deform the plastic booster housing.
  10. Connect the brake lines and tighten the nuts with the 11 mm wrench to 15-20 N·m (11-15 lb-ft). Do not overtighten, because the threads in the aluminum cylinder body can strip.
  11. Reconnect the clutch hose (if you disconnected it).
  12. Plug in the brake fluid level sensor connector.
  13. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid up to the MAX mark.
  14. Bleed the brake system in this order: right rear brake, left front, left rear, right front. For each wheel: put a clear hose on the bleeder fitting, place the other end in a container with some brake fluid, open the bleeder half a turn, and have a helper press the brake pedal fully 5-7 times. On the last press, have the helper hold the pedal down, close the bleeder, then release the pedal. Repeat until fluid flows from the hose without air bubbles. Keep checking the reservoir level and top it up as needed.
  15. After bleeding all the wheels, check the brake pedal. It should feel firm and not sink to the floor. If necessary, repeat the bleeding.
  16. Close the reservoir cap and wipe up any spilled fluid in the engine bay (brake fluid damages paint).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Replacing the master cylinder has a critical impact on vehicle safety. If you have no experience bleeding brakes or working with brake lines, take the car to a repair shop. On cars with ABS, bleeding may require special equipment to activate the modulator pump. Do not allow air into the system. Do not mix different types of brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 can be mixed with each other, but silicone-based DOT 5 is not compatible with systems designed for DOT 4). After the replacement, be sure to test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before driving on public roads.
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