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Autopapyrus · Kia Rio 1.5 SOHC (2005)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/rio/timing-belt-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Rio 1.5 SOHC (2005): Timing Belt Replacement

The A5D 1.5 SOHC engine (98 hp) is an interference engine: if the belt breaks, the valves hit the pistons. Scheduled replacement is every 75,000 km, with an inspection every 15,000 km.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 3-4 hours Steps: 16 Tools: jack and jack stands, socket and wrench set (10-19 mm), torque wrench, screwdrivers, pry bar for removing the crankshaft pulley

Part

  • 🔩 Timing belt kit (belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, tensioner spring). Aftermarket equivalents: Gates K015578XS, Dayco KTB578, Continental CT1028K2
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 6 more. See manuals →

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake, and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Remove the engine cover, loosen the drive belt tension (lower alternator mount), and remove the alternator belt.
  3. Raise the right side of the engine with a jack, using a block of wood under the oil pan, to take the load off the right engine mount.
  4. Remove the bolts of the upper engine mount (right side) and take off the bracket.
  5. Remove the engine undercover (skid plate) and the plastic inner fender liner to reach the crankshaft pulley from below.
  6. Remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt (108-118 N·m (80-87 lb-ft). The pulley needs to be held in place. A convenient way to break the bolt loose is to bump the starter briefly with the parking brake set and 4th gear engaged.
  7. Remove the crankshaft pulley, the guide washer, and then the upper and lower timing covers (bolts 8-11 N·m (71-97 lb-in)).
  8. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the mark on the crankshaft sprocket lines up with the mark on the block. Make sure the "I" mark on the intake camshaft and the "E" mark on the exhaust camshaft line up with the marks on the cylinder head cover.
  9. Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt (38-51 N·m (28-38 lb-ft)), move the pulley away from the belt, and lock the bolt in place.
  10. Remove the old belt and mark its direction of rotation (if you plan to reuse it for diagnosis).
  11. Replace the tensioner and idler pulleys. Be sure to replace the tensioner spring as well (reusing the old spring results in insufficient belt tension).
  12. Install the new belt in this order: crankshaft sprocket → idler pulley → exhaust camshaft sprocket → intake camshaft sprocket → tensioner pulley.
  13. Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, let the spring tension the belt, and tighten the bolt to 38-51 N·m (28-38 lb-ft).
  14. Turn the crankshaft two full revolutions clockwise by hand and check that all the marks line up again (if they don't, repeat the installation starting from step 8).
  15. Check the belt tension on the longest run between the camshaft sprockets: under 10 kg (22 lb) of force, the deflection should be 11-13 mm.
  16. Reassemble in reverse order: timing covers, guide washer, crankshaft pulley (bolt 108-118 N·m (80-87 lb-ft)), engine mount bracket, engine undercover, alternator belt, engine cover. Then reconnect the battery.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is an interference engine. Do not turn the crankshaft or camshafts with the belt removed, or the valves will bend against the pistons. Always replace the tensioner spring together with the pulleys, even if the old one looks intact.
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