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Autopapyrus · Range Rover Sport 3.0 Diesel (2015)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/land-rover/range-rover-sport/installing-a-hydronic-2-d5s-pre-heater/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Range Rover Sport 3.0 Diesel (2015): Installing a Hydronic 2 D5S Pre-Heater

The Hydronic 2 D5S is a liquid-fired heater that is plumbed into the small loop of the engine cooling system and heats the coolant independently of the engine. This warms up the engine and cabin before you start the car. The job is difficult: it requires tapping into the cooling circuit and the fuel line, and routing wiring and exhaust. For the 3.0 diesel (V6), the exact tie-in scheme for this model's cabin heater hoses is not documented in open sources, so what follows is a proven general principle. Determine the specific tie-in points on the vehicle itself, not from other people's photos.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-12 hours (1-2 working days) Steps: 14

Parts

8
№Part
01 Eberspächer Hydronic 2 D5S heater kit (5 kW, diesel, 12 V) with mounting kit
02 Timer or GSM heater control module
03 Fuel pickup (fitting for fuel tank) or fuel line tee
04 Metering pump
05 Coolant hoses with teesinner diameter usually 16-20 mm
06 Heater exhaust and intake pipes with muffler
07 Wiring harness with fuse
08 Coolantsame type as already in the system

Tools

12
  • Socket and ratchet set 8-19 mm
  • Torx sockets
  • screwdrivers
  • plastic clip remover
  • side cutters
  • terminal crimping tool
  • multimeter
  • drill with bits and hole saw
  • hose clamps
  • container for draining coolant
  • vacuum or conventional coolant refill system
  • connector tweezers
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Preparation. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and be aware that settings (windows, suspension, clock) may reset afterward. Put the vehicle on a lift and let the engine cool down. Remove the lower under-body shield and, if necessary, the fender liner.
  2. Choosing the mounting location. The heater is usually installed in the engine compartment (under the hood on the right or left side, near the coolant expansion tank) or in a recess under a wheel arch. Requirements: a flat, rigid mounting surface, access to the fittings, distance from the exhaust manifold, and a combustion air intake that is not in a splash and dust zone. Do not mount it on flexible panels without reinforcement.
  3. Mounting. Secure the bracket with bolts through body reinforcements or existing mounting points. Do not drill in the area of the frame rails, access hatches, or near wiring, fuel lines, and brake lines. Clean the drilled areas and coat them with anti-corrosion compound. The installation angle must meet the manufacturer's requirements: tilt is permitted only within the specified limits.
  4. Connecting to the cooling system. Drain enough coolant to make the tie-in (usually a partial drain to a level below the hoses). The heater is connected in parallel: the feed is taken from the supply hose to the cabin heater core (the hot side from the engine), and the return goes into the return hose to the engine or into the line after the pump. The flow direction marked on the heater body (IN/OUT) is important: if you swap them, the heater will overheat and go into protection mode. Use hoses rated for an operating temperature of at least 120 °C and tees.
  5. Tightening the clamps. Tighten the coolant hose clamps moderately and do not overtighten. As a guideline, use 2-4 N·m (1.5-3 lb-ft) for worm-drive clamps, and do not strip the threads. Check that the hoses have no kinks.
  6. Fuel supply. Diesel fuel is drawn either through a pickup from the tank (a fitting with a tube built into the fuel level sender cover) or by tapping into the supply line. For this vehicle, tank pickup is safer, but it requires removing the rear seat or a lower panel to reach the sender access hatch. Tap into a line only on the return (low-pressure) line, and take the Common Rail system pressure into account.
  7. Installing the metering pump. Secure it on rubber dampers in an area where the pump is protected from heat and splashes, on the body or frame under the floor. The mounting angle is per the pump's data sheet (usually 15-35° from horizontal, with the pump outlet pointing up). Use only the standard nylon or fuel-resistant tubing with a 2 mm inner diameter (for the metering pump), secured with clamps. Do not route it near the exhaust system.
  8. Exhaust and combustion air. The heater exhaust pipe must exit beyond the body, turn downward, and not run into obstructions. The outlet must not point at the fuel tank, wheels, or plastic parts. Route the air intake through a separate tube, with the opening pointing downward or backward, away from the spray. The length of the pipes and the number of bends are limited: do not exceed the tolerance in the Eberspächer manual.
  9. Electrical. Connect power with a wire of the proper gauge directly to the battery +12 V terminal (or to a block where this is permitted) through a fuse in the engine compartment (usually 20-25 A for the D5S; the exact value is per the kit's documentation). Connect ground to clean, bare body metal. Connect the control wires to the timer or GSM module. Do not connect signal wires to the vehicle's CAN bus.
  10. Installing the timer or control module. Install the control panel in the cabin (for example, near the glove box), and route the wire along existing harnesses and secure it. Do not splice into the cables of the vehicle's control units, only into an auxiliary line.
  11. Refilling and bleeding the coolant. Top up the coolant to the proper level with the same type of antifreeze. Start the engine, and with the engine warmed up, set the heater to maximum, let it run, and make sure the air has left the circuit and there are no leaks in the system. Check the level again with the engine cold.
  12. First heater start. Switch the heater on from the timer. It should go through the ignition cycle, which may take several attempts because the fuel line is filled with air. Check for fuel leaks, smoke in the engine compartment, and the tightness of the exhaust pipe and connections. Pump response: it clicks at an even rhythm.
  13. Operation check. Make sure the heater reaches operating mode, hot coolant flows into the heater core, and the cabin blower switches on normally. Check that the heater shuts off by itself when the program ends and does not drain the battery.
  14. Finishing up. Reinstall the shields, fender liner, and trim. Reconnect the battery and check that there are no faults on the instrument cluster or in other systems (suspension, ABS). If necessary, clear the codes with a scan tool.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job involves the fuel system, the cooling circuit, high-temperature exhaust, and electrical wiring
  • Incorrect installation can lead to fire, fuel leaks, or exhaust gas poisoning
  • Never run the heater in a closed garage
  • If you have no experience installing pre-heaters, leave the work to a specialist repair shop
  • Installing an aftermarket heater may affect the vehicle's warranty
  • Some trim levels of this generation of Range Rover Sport already have factory provisions for a fuel-fired heater, so check whether the engine compartment has ready-made capped hoses and connectors, which can make installation much easier