Autopapyrus · Range Rover Sport 3.0 SDV6 (2015)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/land-rover/range-rover-sport/installing-a-webasto-eberspacher-style-hydronic-2-d5s-fuel-fired-coolant-heater/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Range Rover Sport 3.0 SDV6 (2015): Installing a Webasto/Eberspächer-Style Hydronic 2 D5S Fuel-Fired Coolant Heater

The heater is tied into the small coolant circuit in series with the heater core. It warms the engine and cabin by circulating coolant. The exact procedure for this specific trim level is not documented in publicly available service materials. Below is the general installation principle. Check mounting locations and routing against the installation manual supplied with the heater.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 1-2 days (installation, filling and bleeding the system, testing) Steps: 13

Parts

№	Part
01	Hydronic 2 D5S heater installation kit (diesel, 12 V, approx. 5 kW) with control unit and wiring harness
02	Fuel metering pump
03	Fuel pickup tube with tee for tank
04	Heater exhaust muffler
05	Air intake hose
06	Heat-resistant coolant hosesdiameter matched to vehicle's lines
07	Clamps
08	Coolant meeting Land Rover specification
09	Fuse and relay block
10	Timer or remote control for heater

Tools

Socket and wrench set 8-19 mm
Torx screwdrivers
plastic clip remover
hose clamps
metal cutters
drill with metal drill bits
terminal crimping tool
multimeter
coolant drain pan
vacuum coolant filler or funnel for bleeding
diagnostic scan tool

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps

Preparation. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (check whether the battery is in the luggage compartment on your trim level). Let the engine cool completely. Remove the lower under-covers and plastic shrouds in the engine bay to get access to the heater hoses. Decide in advance where to mount the heater. Usually this is the wheel well or the engine bay on the passenger side, close to the heater hoses and away from the exhaust path and electronics.
Choosing the tie-in point. Find the two hoses that run through the bulkhead to the heater core: supply (hot) and return (cold). They are easy to tell apart by temperature on a warmed-up engine. Tie in to the supply hose or the return hose at a single location: the heater with its pump is installed in a break in the line. Do not tie into the turbocharger circuit or the charge air cooler and oil cooler circuit; these are separate circuits.
Connection layout. Coolant flow order: from the heater return line into the inlet of the heater's circulation pump, then into the heater's heat exchanger, then into the heater supply line. Follow the flow direction by the arrows on the pump and heat exchanger housings. Pay attention to flow direction and be sure to use a check valve, so that the engine's main pump does not push coolant through the heater in the reverse direction.
Draining. Drain roughly 2-3 L (2.1-3.2 qt) of coolant from the system through the lower hose or by disconnecting the hose at the tie-in point. Place a pan underneath; the drained coolant can be reused if it is clean.
Mounting the heater. Secure the bracket to the body with bolts and washers. The heater must be positioned so that the air outlet of the heat exchanger is at the top (to purge air pockets). Mount the pump below or level with the heater, with the pump outlet horizontal or pointing up.
Tying in the hoses. Cut the chosen heater hose and install a tee or adapters for the required diameters. Use only heat-resistant hoses (rated for at least 120 °C), with minimum bend radii and no kinking. Secure with clamps, positioned at least 5 mm from the end of the pipe. Tightening torque for worm-drive clamps: 2-4 N·m (18-35 lb-in), depending on size.
Fuel. Take the fuel supply from the tank through a separate pickup tube, or through a tee on the fuel return line. Install the metering pump at the angle given in the instructions, strictly per the data sheet (usually 15-35° from horizontal, outlet pointing up). Route the fuel line along the underbody with protection from stones and heat, with clips every 30-40 cm. The line is plastic tubing with an inner diameter of about 2 mm. Do not tee into the factory fuel system: use only a separate vertical pickup tube in the tank.
Air and exhaust. Route the air intake hose downward, protect the inlet from dirt and snow, with the cut end facing down. Route the exhaust out beyond the body, pointing downward and not toward the fuel tank, wheels or plastic parts. Secure the muffler firmly with a clamp. Keep a clearance of at least 100 mm between the hot pipe and any plastic, and fit a heat shield if necessary. The exhaust must not point at the ground or snow.
Electrical. Take power directly from the battery or from the main power terminal block, through a fuse of about 20 A on the positive wire, as close as possible to the battery terminal. Ground to a cleaned bare-metal point on the body. Do not tap into the CAN wiring or vehicle control modules unless necessary. Connect the coolant pump, metering pump, temperature sensor, control unit, and timer or remote control according to the color-coded diagram in the kit. Insulate all connections with heat-shrink tubing.
Filling and bleeding. Top up the coolant and tighten the expansion tank cap. Turn the ignition on, set the cabin heater to maximum, and set the temperature to warm. Start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens, topping up the coolant periodically. Then run the heater for 10-15 minutes. Remove air pockets through the heater's top bleed point or the expansion tank. Check that the upper and lower hoses heat up evenly.
Fuel. Prime the fuel line beforehand: start the priming function or switch the heater on twice until fuel delivery is steady. The first start may take several cycles, and some white smoke is normal.
Testing. With the heater warmed up, check the connections for leaks, the hoses for heating, and the cabin for any smell of fuel or exhaust. Run a diagnostic scan for fault codes. Let it run in engine preheat mode for 20-30 minutes, then check the coolant temperature and the cabin heater operation.
Finishing. Reinstall the under-covers, reconnect the battery, and check the coolant level on a cold engine after the first night.

Common mistakes and warnings

This work involves the fuel and exhaust systems
Incorrect tie-in can lead to fuel leaks, fire or exhaust poisoning
If you lack experience, have the installation done by a specialized repair shop
Do not run the heater in enclosed spaces or at fuel stations
Before installing, confirm that the vehicle is not already equipped with a factory fuel-fired heater: some trim levels have a factory pre-heater
Installing aftermarket equipment may affect warranty terms