Autopapyrus · Chevrolet Lanos 1.5 (A15SMS, 2008)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chevrolet/lanos/coolant-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chevrolet/lanos/coolant-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Chevrolet Lanos 1.5 (A15SMS, 2008): Coolant Replacement
The replacement interval on the Lanos is usually 40,000 km or 4 years, whichever comes first. The job is simple: drain the old coolant, flush the system if needed, fill with new coolant, and bleed out the air pockets. Never mix antifreezes of different types or colors.
Part
- 🔩 G11 or G12 antifreeze (ready-to-use, or concentrate mixed 1:1 with distilled water), about 7 L (7.4 qt) to have some extra. The whole system holds roughly 6-7 L (6.3-7.4 qt)
Step by step
12 steps- Park the car on level ground and turn off the engine. Let the engine cool down completely, which takes at least 1-2 hours. Do not open the cap on a hot system: you could be burned by steam and hot coolant.
- Open the hood. If there is an engine skid plate, remove it to reach the lower hose and the radiator.
- Place the container under the radiator. Turn the ignition on without starting the engine and set the heater control to maximum heat to open the heater valve. Then slowly unscrew the expansion tank cap.
- Drain the coolant through the drain plug in the lower tank of the radiator. If there is no plug or it won't budge, remove the lower radiator hose. For a more complete drain, you can also disconnect other hoses, including those going to the heater, and blow them out. Some coolant stays in the engine block. The block drain plug is not present on all versions, so look for it on the block itself and do not use force.
- Inspect the hoses, clamps, the tank cap and the tank itself. Replace any cracked or swollen parts. If the old coolant is cloudy, rusty or has an oily film, flush the system with distilled water. Fill with water, warm up the engine with the heater on, let it cool and drain. Repeat until clean water comes out. Oil in the coolant points to a fault, such as a cylinder head gasket. In that case, replacing the coolant alone won't be enough.
- Close the drain plug and reinstall all hoses with their clamps. Tighten the clamps moderately so you don't strip the threads or pinch the hose.
- If you flushed the system with water, any water left inside will dilute the new antifreeze. Take this into account when choosing the mixing ratio for concentrate.
- Pour in the new coolant slowly through the expansion tank until the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. This gives the air time to escape from the system.
- To bleed the air, squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses by hand. This helps push the coolant through. If your engine has a bleed fitting or screw, open it until coolant flows out without bubbles. Check the exact location on your specific car.
- Close the tank. Start the engine with the heater on maximum and hold 2000-2500 rpm until the thermostat opens and the upper hose heats up. Make sure the temperature gauge does not go into the red zone.
- Turn off the engine and let it cool. Check the coolant level and top up if needed. Repeat the warm-up and check until the level stops dropping. The heater should blow hot air: if it blows cool air, there is still air in the system.
- After a few days of driving, check the level on a cold engine and inspect the connections for leaks.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Antifreeze is toxic and tastes sweet, so store and drain it where children and animals cannot get to it. Take used coolant to a recycling facility instead of pouring it on the ground or down a drain. Do not mix different types of antifreeze, such as G11 and G12, or coolants of different colors. They can precipitate and reduce cooling performance. If the engine overheats after the replacement or the coolant level drops quickly, take the car to a repair shop to check for leaks and air pockets.
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