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Autopapyrus · Mercedes-Benz Sprinter (W906) 2.1 CDI (2015)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mercedes-benz/sprinter/manual-transmission-input-shaft-bearing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mercedes-Benz Sprinter (W906) 2.1 CDI (2015): Manual Transmission Input Shaft Bearing Replacement

The input shaft bearing is located inside the transmission, so replacing it means removing the transmission, splitting the housing and pulling the shaft. Typical signs of wear: a rumble in neutral with the clutch pedal released that goes away when the pedal is pressed, noise in all gears, and metal shavings in the oil. The exact disassembly procedure for this Sprinter's manual transmission is not documented in publicly available service materials, so a general work sequence is given below. Check housing and shaft nut tightening specifications against the manufacturer's service data.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-14 hours (transmission removal, disassembly, reassembly, installation) Steps: 18

Parts

5
№Part
01 Input shaft front bearingbased on inspection
02 Input shaft rear bearingbased on inspection
03 Seal and snap ring set for manual transmission
04 Manual transmission fluid
05 Clutch kit (release bearing, disc, pressure plate)if needed; clutch has to come off anyway

Tools

9
  • lift or pit
  • transmission jack
  • socket and wrench set
  • torque wrench
  • bearing puller and press
  • drift set
  • snap ring pliers
  • syringe or pump for filling oil
  • drain pan
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 7 more. See manuals →

Step by step

18 steps
  1. Before you start, make sure the noise really comes from the input shaft. Warm up the transmission and check the noise in neutral with the clutch released and then pressed. If the noise disappears with the clutch pressed, the source is most likely the input shaft. If the noise remains, check the release bearing, the hub bearing and the driveshaft. Drain the oil first and inspect it for metal shavings.
  2. Put the vehicle on a lift or over a pit and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the underbody shield, if fitted.
  3. Drain the transmission oil through the drain plug. After removing the plug, inspect the magnet and the oil for metal shavings.
  4. Remove the air ducts and any parts that block access to the transmission from above. If necessary, remove the battery and its tray, as well as the air filter housing. Disconnect the sensor connectors on the transmission (reverse light switch, speed sensor, etc.) and label them.
  5. Disconnect the shift and select rods or cables from the transmission and mark their positions. Disconnect the clutch actuation: on this vehicle it is hydraulic, so remove the clutch slave cylinder without pressing the pedal and, if possible, without disconnecting the line, so you do not have to bleed the system again.
  6. Remove the driveshaft: mark the position of the flanges relative to each other, then remove the center support bearing mounting bolts (if fitted) and the flange bolts at the transmission. Plug the output shaft opening or tie the driveshaft up out of the way.
  7. Remove the exhaust components and the crossmember that obstruct lowering the transmission (as needed). Support the engine from below or secure it from above so that it does not sag when the transmission mount is removed.
  8. Position the transmission jack under the transmission and strap the transmission to it. Remove the rear transmission mount (crossmember), then remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine and to the clutch housing. One of the bolts may be hidden. Remove them in a circular pattern, noting the different lengths.
  9. Slide the transmission back until the input shaft is fully clear of the clutch disc hub, without letting the transmission hang on the shaft, then carefully lower it with the jack.
  10. Inspect the clutch: disc, pressure plate, flywheel, release bearing and guide sleeve. If wear is noticeable or the dual-mass flywheel has play, replace them as a set, since the transmission is already out.
  11. Clean the outside of the transmission and secure it on a workbench. Remove the fork and release bearing, and the clutch housing (if it is a separate part). Remove the rear housing cover, mark the snap rings that retain the bearings, and remove the assemblies one by one, noting the order of the washers and rings.
  12. Remove the input shaft as an assembly. Replace the front and rear input shaft bearings using a puller or press, applying force only to the inner race when removing from the shaft and only to the outer race when pressing out of the housing, and avoiding any blows to the rolling elements. Inspect the seating surfaces on the shaft and in the housing: if the bearing spins in its seat or there is scoring, replace the affected component.
  13. Inspect the gears, synchronizers and the bearing on the output shaft. If wear is even and the surfaces have no chips, you can reassemble. Replace seals and gaskets with new ones and apply a thin layer of sealant to the mating surfaces only where the manufacturer's service data calls for it.
  14. Reassemble the transmission in reverse order. Install the snap rings, check the shaft end play and free rotation in each gear. Tighten the housing fasteners to the manufacturer's specification (for reference, for M8 threads about 20-25 N·m (15-18 lb-ft), for M10 about 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft); check the exact values for your transmission against the service data).
  15. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines (no excess) and check that the clutch disc hub splines slide easily on the shaft. If the disc was replaced, center it with an alignment tool.
  16. Install the transmission, without letting it hang on the input shaft, and if necessary turn the crankshaft slightly to align the splines. Tighten the transmission-to-engine bolts in a circular pattern to the specified torque (in the range of about 40-60 N·m (30-44 lb-ft) for the main bolts), then install the transmission mount and crossmember.
  17. Reconnect the connectors, rods or cables, clutch actuation, driveshaft (using the marks), exhaust components and shield. Install the drain plug with a new seal and fill the transmission with oil up to the fill hole level: oil type and viscosity per the Mercedes-Benz specification for manual transmissions, quantity per the service data.
  18. Reconnect the battery, bleed the clutch actuation if needed, and check the pedal operation and engagement of all gears with the engine off. Start the engine and check the noise in neutral and in gear, and check for oil leaks. Take a test drive of 10-15 km (6-9 miles) and recheck the oil level and for leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is a difficult job that requires a lift, a transmission jack and a press
  • If you have no experience disassembling transmissions, it is better to leave it to a specialist shop
  • Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack, and always strap the transmission to the jack
  • If the vehicle has the 7G-Tronic automatic transmission, this procedure does not apply: automatic transmission disassembly should only be done in a specialist shop, and the input shaft and its bearings are designed differently there
  • If you cannot reliably determine the source of the noise, first check the release bearing and the flywheel so you do not remove the transmission unnecessarily