Autopapyrus · Mitsubishi Delica (3rd generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mitsubishi/delica/changing-to-a-different-wheel-size/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mitsubishi/delica/changing-to-a-different-wheel-size/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Mitsubishi Delica (3rd generation): Changing to a Different Wheel Size
On the 3rd-generation Delica with the 4D56 diesel, the wheel mounting pattern depends on the version. The 4WD versions (Q-P25W, Q-P35W) have 6 studs, a 6x139.7 PCD and M12x1.5 threads. The rear-wheel-drive versions (Q-P05W, Q-P15W) have 5 studs, a 5x114.3 PCD and M12x1.5 threads. The new wheels must match the PCD, center bore and offset, and the overall wheel diameter must stay close to stock.
Key figures
- Stud pattern on 4WD versionswheels must match the number of holes and the bolt circle diameter, or the wheel will not fit (step 1)6x139.7
- Stud threadchoose nuts for this thread, and the cone shape must match the wheel (steps 1 and 5)M12x1.5
- Factory wheel offset for 6-stud versionsthe closer the new wheel is to this value, the lower the risk of suspension rubbing (step 2)about 22 mm (tolerance 20-24 mm)
- Center bore on 5-stud versionsthe new wheel's bore must not be smaller, and if it is larger, hub-centric rings are needed (step 3)67.1 mm
- Factory tire pressurea starting value to adjust for the new size (step 13)2.2 bar (32 psi)
Check these values against the manufacturer’s specification for your vehicle before you start.
Parts
4| № | Part | Genuine part no. |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Alloy or steel wheels (set)4 pcs; same PCD, same center bore diameter, suitable offset (ET) | MR711247 |
| MR721265 | ||
| MB370930 | ||
| 02 | Tires for the chosen wheel size (set)4 pcs | |
| 03 | Hub-centric ringsif needed | |
| 04 | Lug nuts matching the new wheel seat typeif needed |
Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.
Tools
7- Jack and jack stands
- lug wrench or socket for the wheel nuts
- torque wrench
- wheel chocks
- wire brush
- copper grease for the hub centering lip
- tape measure or caliper
Step by step
14 steps- Identify your mounting pattern: count the studs on the hub (6 or 5). For 6 studs, look for 6x139.7 wheels. For 5 studs, look for 5x114.3. Never fit wheels with a different PCD, even ones that are "almost right."
- Compare the stock and acceptable sizes. Factory: for 6x139.7, 215SR15 tires on 6Jx15 ET22 wheels (offset tolerance roughly 20-24 mm). For 5x114.3, 185SR14 tires on 5Jx14 ET40 wheels (tolerance 38-42 mm). Other known options for 6x139.7: 225/75 R15 on 6.5Jx15 ET25, 225/70 R16 on 6.5Jx16 ET25, and 235/70 R16 on 7Jx16 ET20. For 5x114.3, known options are 195/70 R15 on 6Jx15 ET40 and 195/65 R16 on 6.5Jx16 ET38. Keep the offset close to these values.
- Check the center bore of the new wheel. On 5-stud hubs it is 67.1 mm, and on 6-stud hubs about 110 mm. If the wheel's bore is larger, use hub-centric rings. If it is smaller, the wheel will not fit on the hub.
- Choose a tire so that the overall outside diameter differs from stock by no more than 2-3%. Otherwise the speedometer will read incorrectly, and on 4WD the drivetrain may be overstressed.
- Check the fastener seat. The lug nuts must match the seat shape (cone or ball) of the new wheel. Do not use nuts for steel wheels on alloy wheels, or the other way around.
- Park the vehicle on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks under the wheels that stay on the ground. Loosen the first lug nut with the wrench while the wheel is still on the ground.
- Jack up the vehicle at the designated jacking point and set a jack stand. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Remove the nuts and the old wheel. Use a wire brush to clean the hub and the mating surface of the brake disc or drum of rust and dirt. Apply a thin coat of copper grease to the hub centering lip, but do not lubricate the stud threads.
- Test-fit the new wheel without a tire: it should slide freely onto the hub centering lip and not touch the caliper or brake drum. Check the clearance between the spokes and the caliper.
- Install the wheel, thread all the nuts on by hand and snug them in a crisscross pattern (for 6 studs, skipping every other nut in a star pattern), without fully tightening.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the nuts with a torque wrench in a crisscross pattern. The approximate torque for M12x1.5 threads in this vehicle class is 90-120 N·m (66-89 lb-ft); check the exact value against the manufacturer's specification.
- Turn the steering wheel to full lock left and right, with the vehicle either raised or on the ground: the tire must not touch the control arms, springs, tie rods or wheel arches. Check the suspension travel in compression, especially if you chose tires wider or taller than stock.
- Inflate the tires. The factory pressure for the stock sizes is about 2.2 bar (32 psi). For a different size, follow the tire manufacturer's recommendations and the load.
- Drive 50-100 km (30-60 miles) and re-check the nut torque. Have the wheels balanced and the alignment checked.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Wheels are a safety item
- A wrong PCD, an offset that is too large or too small, a wheel that is not properly centered or loose nuts can cause the wheel to come off while driving
- If you lack experience, have a tire shop install and check the wheels
- Non-standard sizes may require speedometer recalibration and may affect road-legal status under local regulations