Autopapyrus · Volkswagen Golf Plus (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/volkswagen/golf-plus/repairing-the-wiring-in-the-tailgate-boot/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/volkswagen/golf-plus/repairing-the-wiring-in-the-tailgate-boot/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Volkswagen Golf Plus (1st generation): Repairing the Wiring in the Tailgate Boot
The wires to the tailgate pass through a rubber corrugated boot between the body and the tailgate (on the Golf Plus, on the hinge side). They flex constantly each time the tailgate opens, and over time they break inside intact insulation. Typical symptoms: the rear wiper, license plate lights, rear window defroster, or release button stop working, or the lights in the tailgate go out intermittently. The repair is to locate the breaks and restore the conductors by soldering and insulating them, not by twisting them together.
Parts
5| № | Part | Genuine part no. |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Stranded copper wire, 0.5-0.75 mm², silicone or PVC insulationsame gauge and color as the damaged wire | |
| 02 | Corrugated protective loom | |
| 03 | Solder-sleeve heat-shrink connectors | |
| 04 | Body-to-tailgate transition rubber boot/sealif torn | |
| 05 | Complete tailgate wiring harness repair kitfor severe damage | 5M0971147AP |
| 5M0971147AR | ||
| 5M0971148AH |
Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.
Tools
10- Torx bit set and Phillips screwdrivers
- plastic trim removal tools
- multimeter or test light
- wire strippers
- crimping tool
- soldering iron
- adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing
- nylon zip ties
- fabric-based tape
- contact cleaner
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more.
See manuals →
Step by step
12 steps- Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait a few minutes. If the car has a coded radio, get the code beforehand.
- Open the tailgate and determine which circuits are faulty. This will help you find the break: usually the wires that flex the most are the ones that break.
- Remove the plastic trim panel from the tailgate. Pry out the plastic clips with a trim tool without breaking them. Remove the latch and handle covers if they are in the way.
- Unclip the corrugated boot from the body and from the tailgate: it has retainers or is pressed into the opening. Carefully pull the wire bundle out of the boot, without tugging on the conductors.
- Remove the protective corrugated loom along its length. Inspect the wires for kinks and chafing, especially where they exit the boot. A break is often hidden inside intact insulation: flex the wire slightly and check it for continuity with a multimeter.
- If there are connectors nearby, do not disassemble them unless necessary. Take photos of the wire layout and colors before you start the repair.
- Cut out the damaged section. Strip the conductors and splice in a piece of new wire of the same gauge and color. For each circuit, stagger the splices by 2-3 cm (about 1 in) so the bundle does not get bulky.
- Solder the splice, then insulate it with adhesive-lined heat-shrink. Do not leave a splice in a section that flexes: move it to a stationary area. If the wire is too short, splice in a new section with extra length to allow for flexing.
- Before closing up the boot, check each circuit with a multimeter for continuity and for any short to ground. Then reconnect the battery and test the wiper, license plate lights, defroster, and latch.
- Gather the wires into a bundle, wrap it with fabric tape, and slide it into a new protective loom. Leave a little slack for flexing when the tailgate opens, but no sagging that could get pinched.
- Insert the bundle into the boot and secure the boot to the body and to the tailgate. Make sure it seals tightly: water getting into the tailgate quickly causes corrosion of the contacts.
- Reinstall the trim panel and covers. Open and close the tailgate several times, making sure the wires are not pinched or bent over sharp edges.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Twisting wires together and wrapping them with electrical tape does not last long in this location: moisture and constant flexing lead to another break, so solder the splices and use adhesive-lined heat-shrink
- Do not use a smaller wire gauge, and do not use stiff solid-core wire: it breaks quickly
- If the tailgate has a rear-view camera, a power-operated mechanism, or central locking with a separate control unit, and you are not sure what the wires are for, take the car to an auto electrician: a mistake can damage the control unit
- The exact wiring diagram and connector locations for a specific trim level are not documented in public sources, so rely on wire colors and continuity test results