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Autopapyrus · Chevrolet Rezzo 1.6 A16DMS (2007)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chevrolet/rezzo/complete-engine-overhaul-disassembly/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chevrolet Rezzo 1.6 A16DMS (2007): Complete Engine Overhaul (Disassembly)

The A16DMS is an inline 4-cylinder, 16-valve, 1.6 L gasoline engine with a timing belt drive and two camshafts. Disassembly goes from the top down: accessories, cylinder head, timing drive, oil pan, pistons with connecting rods, then the crankshaft. The exact torque specifications and cylinder head tightening sequence for this engine have not been confirmed, so check the manufacturer's service manual during reassembly.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 1-2 days for removal and disassembly, not including inspection and reassembly Steps: 11 Tools: 8-24 mm socket and wrench set, torque wrench, crankshaft pulley puller, oil filter wrench, flywheel holder, engine hoist or overhead crane, engine stand, plastic containers, marker, plastic scraper, micrometer and bore gauge for inspection.

Part

  • 🔩 Overhaul gasket set (cylinder head gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crankshaft seals), cylinder head bolts (single-use), timing belt with idler/tensioner pulleys and water pump, main and rod bearings, piston rings, and oversize pistons and bearings if needed. Exact part numbers for this engine are not listed here to avoid errors
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

11 steps
  1. Preparation. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Drain the engine oil and coolant. Relieve the fuel system pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank the engine until it stalls. Photograph the connectors and the routing of hoses and wiring harnesses.
  2. Remove the engine from the vehicle, either together with the transmission or separately. Remove the engine undercover, hood, air filter with ducts, radiator or coolant hoses, and heater hoses. Disconnect the wiring harness, throttle and clutch cables, fuel lines, brake booster vacuum hoses, and the exhaust pipe at the manifold. For a manual transmission, disconnect the driveshafts and the transmission (the method depends on whether you are lifting the assembly out from below or above). Support the engine with a hoist, remove the mounts, and lift the engine out.
  3. Mount the engine on an engine stand or a sturdy support. Remove the alternator, A/C compressor (if equipped), power steering pump, tensioner and drive belt, thermostat, intake and exhaust manifolds, fuel rail with injectors, ignition coils and spark plugs, and sensors. Sort the fasteners by component, and handle the injectors and sensors carefully.
  4. Remove the valve cover. Set cylinder No. 1 piston to TDC using the timing marks. Remove the timing belt cover and the crankshaft pulley (hold the crankshaft from turning, since the pulley bolt is very tight), release the tensioner, and remove the belt. Do not rotate the camshafts with the belt removed unless necessary, so the valve timing is not disturbed.
  5. Remove the camshaft sprockets. Loosen the camshaft cap bolts gradually from the outside toward the center, in several passes, so the shaft does not warp. Remove the camshafts and the rocker arms or lifters, and lay them out by cylinder so they do not get mixed up.
  6. Remove the cylinder head. Loosen the bolts in several passes in the reverse of the tightening order (from the outside toward the center in a spiral). Lift off the head, tapping it with a rubber mallet if needed. Do not pry on the mating surface with a screwdriver. Set the head on wooden blocks so the valves are not damaged. Replace the head gasket.
  7. Turn the engine over. Remove the oil pan, oil pickup tube, and oil pump. Remove the flywheel (the bolts are very tight, so hold it with a flywheel holder). Remove the rear main seal and its housing if it is a separate part.
  8. Remove the connecting rod caps. Before loosening them, check the markings on the rods and caps, and if they are missing, mark the cylinder numbers with a marker or a number punch. Remove the nuts or bolts from the rod caps, take off the cap, and push the piston with the rod upward using a wooden hammer handle. Do not force it until you have removed the wear ridge in the cylinder (if there is one). Keep the bearing shells in the order they were installed and do not mix them up.
  9. Remove the main bearing caps. Check their markings (numbers and direction arrow). Loosen the bolts gradually from the outside toward the center, lift out the crankshaft, and remove the bearing shells and thrust washers. Note the position of the thrust washers, as this is important for crankshaft end play.
  10. Inspection. Use a micrometer to measure the crankshaft journals (main and rod) and a bore gauge to measure the block cylinders at different heights and in two planes (out-of-round and taper). Check the flatness of the block and cylinder head with a straightedge and feeler gauge for warping. Assess the condition of the bearings: scoring, uneven contact, and wear beyond normal. If tolerances are exceeded (values are in the service manual), the block needs honing or boring and oversize parts, and the crankshaft needs grinding. Clean the block and crankshaft thoroughly and blow out the oil passages.
  11. Preparation for reassembly. Install new seals, gaskets, cylinder head bolts, timing belt, idler/tensioner pulleys, and water pump. Lubricate all rubbing surfaces with engine oil during assembly. Take the tightening torques and sequences for the main and rod bearing caps, cylinder head, flywheel, and crankshaft pulley from the manufacturer's service manual, as no ranges are given here to avoid misleading you. Perform angle tightening of the cylinder head bolts only according to the specification.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The timing belt on the A16DMS must be installed strictly according to the marks. Before the first start, turn the crankshaft by hand two full revolutions and recheck that the marks line up. With incorrect timing, the valves can collide with the pistons. Work of this complexity is best left to a specialized repair shop if you lack experience, especially the measuring and machining of the block and crankshaft.
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