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Hyundai Tucson (1st generation, JM): Checking Tire Pressure and Condition

Check tire pressure on cold tires at least once a month and before a long trip. While you're at it, inspect the tread, sidewalls and valves. The exact pressure values for your trim level are listed on the placard on the body. On the JM crossover they depend on tire size and load, so go by the placard rather than an "average" figure.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 15-20 minutes Steps: 10 Tools: tire pressure gauge (or an air compressor with a gauge), tread depth gauge or a coin, flashlight, pump or air compressor, soapy water in a spray bottle

Part

  • 🔩 No consumables required. If needed: valve caps, tubeless tire repair kit, valve cores, tires of the correct size (per the placard on the body)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 2 more. See manuals →

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Check the tires cold: after the vehicle has sat for at least 2-3 hours, or after driving no more than 2-3 km. On warm tires the pressure is 0.2-0.4 bar (3-6 psi) higher, and you will end up underinflating them if you fill to the target value.
  2. Find the placard with the recommended pressure. It is usually on the driver's door pillar, sometimes on the fuel filler flap or in the glove box. It lists the tire size and the pressure for the front and rear axles, at normal and full load. A rough guide for vehicles in this class is about 2.0-2.5 bar (29-36 psi). If your tire size differs from the one on the placard, follow the recommendation for your size.
  3. Remove the valve cap, press the gauge firmly onto the valve stem and read the value. Repeat on every wheel, including the spare. The spare usually needs higher pressure than the regular wheels (see the placard or owner's manual).
  4. Inflate or release air to reach the correct value. Pressure on the same axle should be equal left and right. Do not overinflate: the vehicle handles worse and the center of the tread wears faster.
  5. Inspect the tread. The minimum legal remaining tread depth for passenger cars is 1.6 mm, but for safety on wet roads and in winter it is better to replace tires earlier, at 3-4 mm. Check wear across the tread width: wear on the edges means underinflation, wear in the center means overinflation, and wear on one side means poor alignment or worn suspension parts.
  6. Inspect the sidewalls and the tread surface with a flashlight. Look for cuts, bulges, blisters, cracks, and nails or stones lodged in the tread grooves. A tire with a bulge or blister must be replaced; it cannot be repaired.
  7. Check the valves and valve cores. If the tire is losing air slowly, wet the valve and the tire bead at the rim with soapy water: bubbles show where the leak is. Replace a faulty valve core. The cap must be in place, since it keeps dirt out.
  8. Check the manufacture date on the sidewall (the four-digit DOT code: week and year). Pay special attention to tires older than 6-7 years: the rubber ages and cracks even if the tread is still deep.
  9. Evaluate wear by axle and, if needed, rotate the wheels (front to rear, rear to front) roughly every 8,000-10,000 km. Check the wheel bolt tightness with a torque wrench to the manufacturer's specification (for vehicles in this class, usually about 90-110 N·m (66-81 lb-ft)).
  10. Put the caps back on and record the pressures. After sharp temperature changes (pressure changes by about 0.1 bar (1.5 psi) per 10 °C), check it again.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Tires are a safety-critical component. If you find a bulge, a deep cut, damaged cord or a rapid loss of air, do not drive on that tire and do not try to "inflate it and make it home." Fit the spare wheel or take the vehicle to a tire shop. Repairing a tire sidewall is not acceptable. If the tread wears unevenly, check the alignment and suspension, otherwise new tires will wear out quickly.