Autopapyrus · Kia Carens 1.6 (G4ED) (2011)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/carens/clutch-kit-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/carens/clutch-kit-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Kia Carens 1.6 (G4ED) (2011): Clutch Kit Replacement
On the Carens II with the G4ED engine, the clutch is hydraulic and the transmission is a 5-speed manual. To replace the clutch, you need to remove the transmission (in most cases from below, along with disconnecting the driveshafts and the starter). The exact procedure for this model is not documented step by step in open sources, so below is a general sequence proven on cars of this class. Check torque values against the manufacturer's specifications.
Part
- 🔩 1.6 clutch kit for the manual transmission: clutch cover (pressure plate), clutch disc, release bearing. Buy a kit from a single manufacturer (for example, Sachs, Valeo, LuK) matched to the G4ED engine. Additionally: rear crankshaft seal and transmission input shaft seal, transmission oil, and the clutch slave cylinder if worn
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 2 more.
See manuals →
Step by step
14 steps- Preparation. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Put the car on a lift or over a pit and secure the wheels. Remove the battery with its tray and the air filter with its ducts if they get in the way of access to the upper transmission bolts.
- Drain the transmission oil from the transmission. Remove the engine undercover (skid plate) and, if fitted, the plastic under-hood shield.
- Disconnect from the transmission: the connector of the speed sensor and reverse switch, the shift cables or linkage rods (note the position of the adjusting nuts and cotter pins), and the clutch hydraulic line or hose. It is best to disconnect the slave cylinder from the transmission together with its line, without opening the hydraulic circuit, so you don't have to bleed the system again. If the line is opened anyway, bleeding will be required.
- Remove the starter: undo the mounting bolts and the power wires. On the 1.6, the starter is usually bolted to the transmission case.
- Disconnect the left and right driveshafts. Remove the lower control arms (or disconnect the ball joints or the stabilizer bar links) far enough to pull the axle shafts out of the transmission. If necessary, remove the intermediate shaft from its bracket. Plug the openings in the transmission so the remaining oil doesn't run out.
- Support the engine from below with a jack, using a wooden spacer under the oil pan, or secure it with a support bar. Place a jack under the transmission. Remove the transmission mount (bushing) and the lower bolts of the transmission-to-engine joint, then the upper ones. Note that the bellhousing bolts come in different lengths, so remember them or lay them out in their positions.
- Pull the transmission back along the input shaft axis until the shaft fully clears the clutch disc hub. Do not let the transmission hang on the input shaft. Lower the transmission and set it aside.
- Remove the old clutch cover: loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern, 1-2 turns per pass, so the diaphragm fingers don't warp. Remove the cover and the clutch disc. Inspect the flywheel for signs of overheating, cracks, deep grooves and runout. If there are significant defects, the flywheel should be resurfaced or replaced. Check the rear crankshaft seal for seepage, and replace it if there are leaks.
- Wipe the flywheel and contact surfaces clean. Apply a thin layer of special high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines (don't overdo it, as the excess will fling onto the disc). Lubricate the pilot bushing or bearing in the crankshaft and the release bearing seat.
- Install the new clutch disc with the correct side facing out: the disc usually has a marking showing which side faces the flywheel. Center the disc with the alignment tool. Install the cover and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 passes with a torque wrench (torque per the manufacturer's specification). Remove the alignment tool.
- Replace the release bearing and fork, and lubricate the contact points. If the release bearing is integrated with the slave cylinder, replace the whole assembly. It is advisable to replace the slave cylinder if there is even the slightest leakage.
- Install the transmission in reverse order. The input shaft must enter the disc splines without binding: if necessary, turn the shaft slightly (with a gear engaged, rotate the shaft), but do not draw the transmission in with the bolts. Tighten the bellhousing bolts to the correct torque per the specification. Install the starter, mounts, arms, driveshafts, cables and connectors.
- Fill the transmission with oil up to the level of the fill/check hole. If the hydraulic system was opened, bleed the clutch: put DOT 4 brake fluid in the reservoir, have a helper press the pedal, and bleed the air at the slave cylinder until the bubbles disappear.
- Check the pedal travel and engagement point, and make sure there are no vibrations. Drive 300-500 km (about 200-300 miles) gently to bed in the disc. Do not launch the car at high rpm and do not slip the clutch.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Working under a raised engine and transmission is dangerous: use reliable supports and do not rely on a jack alone. The transmission is heavy, so do the job with a helper. If you have no experience removing a powertrain, take the job to a repair shop. Do not use impact wrenches on the clutch cover bolts; tighten strictly with a torque wrench to the specification.
How it works · 3D
How a Manual Transmission Works
How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model.
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