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Autopapyrus · Kia Forte (3rd generation, BD)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/forte/outer-tie-rod-end-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Forte (3rd generation, BD): Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects the tie rod to the steering knuckle. Signs of wear: knocking and play in the steering wheel over bumps, pulling and uneven tire wear, a torn boot. Replace the tie rod end while preserving the exact original length, then have the alignment done.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours per side, plus a mandatory wheel alignment Steps: 11

Parts

3
№PartAlternatives
01 Outer tie rod end for Kia Forte BD / Hyundai Elantra ADleft or right (thread direction differs by side) Febest, Lemforder, CTR, Sidem
02 Tie rod end stud nut, new castle (cotter pin) or self-lockingif not included with the tie rod end
03 Steering rack bootif the boot is torn

Tools

11
  • jack and jack stands
  • lug wrench
  • sockets and wrenches in 17
  • 19
  • 21 and 22 mm (depending on the nut size)
  • adjustable or open-end wrench for the jam nut
  • ball joint separator (or a hammer with a pry bar)
  • wire brush
  • penetrating oil
  • torque wrench
  • marker or caliper

Step by step

11 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the side you are working on, lift the front axle and remove the wheel. Place a jack stand under the vehicle.
  2. Spray the tie rod end threads and the jam nut with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes. Clean the tie rod threads with a wire brush.
  3. Mark the tie rod threads next to the jam nut with a marker. Alternatively, measure the distance from the end of the tie rod to the end of the old tie rod end with a caliper, or count the turns as you unscrew it. This preserves the original tie rod length and approximate toe setting.
  4. If a castle nut is fitted, remove the cotter pin. Unscrew the stud nut of the tie rod end. If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key at the end of the stud.
  5. Press the stud out of the steering knuckle arm with a separator. Striking the knuckle eye with a hammer is only a fallback, and never hit the stud threads without a nut threaded on. Do not damage the boots of the joint and CV joint or the brake hose.
  6. While holding the tie rod with a wrench on the flats, if present, loosen the jam nut. Unscrew the tie rod end, counting the turns.
  7. Compare the old and new tie rod ends for length and thread. Thread the new tie rod end on up to the mark or the same number of turns. Snug up the jam nut lightly; you will tighten it fully after the alignment.
  8. Insert the stud into the knuckle arm and thread on the new nut. Tighten with a torque wrench to the manufacturer's specification (roughly 90-130 N·m (66-96 lb-ft); check the exact value in the specifications for your version). If the cotter pin slot does not line up, tighten the nut to the nearest slot, but do not loosen it. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over.
  9. Check that the tie rod end and rack boots are intact and that the stud is not cocked. Tighten the jam nut (about 50-55 N·m (37-41 lb-ft); exact value per the service manual) while keeping the tie rod end from turning.
  10. Install the wheel. Tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern, then do the final tightening with the car on the ground to 107-127 N·m (79-94 lb-ft). Drive 100-200 meters (about 110-220 yards) and check the steering wheel for free play and knocking.
  11. Have the toe and camber alignment done on an alignment rack right after the replacement. Without it, tire wear and pulling are guaranteed. After the alignment, check the jam nut tightness again.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Steering is a safety-critical system
  • If you lack experience, leave the job to a repair shop
  • Never leave the vehicle on a jack without jack stands
  • Replace tie rod ends in pairs, or at least inspect the other one: wear on both is usually similar
  • The BD has an electric power steering system (MDPS) on the rack, so do not turn the steering wheel with a tie rod disconnected, to avoid upsetting the center position, and do not turn the rack unnecessarily
  • If during inspection you find play in the rack itself, or a bad inner tie rod end, tie rod, or torn rack boot, that is a different job and is best diagnosed on a lift