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https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/iskra/rear-beam-bushing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Lada Iskra: Rear Beam Bushing Replacement

The Lada Iskra uses a semi-independent rear suspension with a torsion beam, borrowed from the Lada Vesta. The beam bushings provide a flexible connection to the body and need to be replaced when you notice knocking noises, rubber separation or play. The job is done with the beam still on the car, by pressing the bushings out in place, without removing the entire beam.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2 hours Steps: 11 Tools: Two jacks, 18 mm socket, 18 mm box-end wrench, M12 threaded rod 150-200 mm long with two nuts and washers, pieces of pipe of suitable diameter for pressing out the bushings, sledgehammer, silicone grease or graphite grease

Part

  • 🔩 Rear beam bushings (BRT, part number 2180-2914054P, or OE)

Step by step

11 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface. Loosen the rear wheel bolts and the nuts that secure the bushing brackets to the body.
  2. Raise the rear of the car onto jack stands and remove both rear wheels.
  3. Place two jacks under the beam near the shock absorber mounts, one on each side, and raise the beam slightly to unload the bushings.
  4. Remove the nuts that secure the bushing brackets to the body (18 mm socket). The right bracket can be removed completely; the left one usually stays in place.
  5. Lower the beam with the jack until the bushing comes out of the bracket. Replace the bushings one at a time, first one side and then the other.
  6. Press the old bushing out of the beam eye using the M12 threaded rod, two nuts, washers and pieces of pipe of suitable diameter. Insert the rod through the bushing sleeve, place a pipe spacer on one side, and a nut and washer on the other. Tighten the nut to push the bushing out of the beam. If needed, tap it with a sledgehammer.
  7. Clean the seat in the beam eye of dirt and rust. Generously coat the outside of the new bushing with silicone or graphite grease. This is critical for easy installation.
  8. Press the new bushing in using the same method: threaded rod, nuts and pipes. Choose a pipe that matches the diameter of the bushing body so you don't damage the rubber. If you lubricated it properly, pressing it in should go smoothly, without excessive force.
  9. Raise the beam back into the bracket with the jack and start the mounting nuts by hand. Repeat the procedure for the other side.
  10. Lower the car onto its wheels (the rear axle must rest on the ground under the car's own weight) and tighten the nuts that secure the bushings to the body. Tightening torque is 60-80 N·m (44-59 lb-ft); check the manufacturer's specification for the exact value. Tightening under load prevents premature rubber wear from twisting.
  11. Install the wheels and tighten the wheel bolts. Check how the suspension works on a test drive.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not use polyurethane bushings if you lack experience with them. They can spin in the beam eye if they are not pressed in properly. Do not lubricate the inner sleeve of the bushing. Grease should be applied only to the outside of the bushing body to make installation easier. Tightening the bushing fasteners with the beam hanging will quickly destroy the rubber in service, so always tighten them with the car's weight on the wheels. After replacing the bushings, it is recommended to have the wheel alignment checked and adjusted if needed on an alignment rack.