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Autopapyrus · Subaru Forester 2.0 EJ204 (2012)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/subaru/forester/timing-belt-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Subaru Forester 2.0 EJ204 (2012): Timing Belt Replacement

On the EJ204 engine, the timing belt should be replaced every 100,000-105,000 km or 9 years. The engine is a horizontally opposed (boxer) four-cylinder SOHC (one camshaft per cylinder head) and is an interference design: if the belt breaks, the pistons hit the valves. The job requires removing accessories and timing covers, setting the timing marks, and replacing all the idler pulleys. It is recommended to replace the water pump and seals at the same time.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 4-6 hours Steps: 16 Tools: socket set (10, 12, 14, 17, 19 mm), open-end wrenches 10-17 mm, flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers, torque wrench, special crankshaft pulley holding tool (can be made from a steel plate with two holes for locating the bolts), seal installation driver (tube 32 mm dia., 6 cm long), floor jack, jack stands, radiator protection (a sheet of plywood or sheet metal)

Part

  • 🔩 Gates K025612XS timing belt kit or Subaru 13028AA240S2 (belt, tensioner with pulley, smooth idler pulley, flanged idler pulley, toothed idler pulley). Additional: water pump, front crankshaft seal Subaru 80673-3030, camshaft seals, thermostat rubber O-ring, oil pan sealant
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 9 more. See manuals →

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and drain the coolant from the radiator (drain plug at the bottom). Remove the upper radiator hose and the engine undercover.
  2. Remove the radiator together with the cooling fans. This gives access to the front of the engine. Place a protective sheet (sheet metal or plywood) in front of the engine in case a wrench slips.
  3. Raise the right side of the vehicle with a jack, remove the front right wheel and the fender liner to reach the crankshaft pulley from below.
  4. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by the center pulley bolt until the marks line up: the marks on the camshaft pulleys (left and right cylinder heads) must align with the marks on the rear timing covers, and the mark on the crankshaft pulley must align with the mark on the engine block at the bottom. This is the TDC position of cylinder 1.
  5. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (tightening torque ~120 N·m (89 lb-ft)). Use the special holding tool, or lock the flywheel through the inspection window in the bellhousing. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
  6. Remove the bolts of the front timing covers (upper, lower, side). Tightening torque is 5 N·m (44 lb-in). Remove the covers.
  7. Loosen the timing belt tensioner nut (14 mm socket), pull the locking pin out of the hydraulic tensioner, and remove the tensioner. Unbolt the smooth idler pulley, the toothed idler pulley and the flanged idler pulley (tightening torque 40-45 N·m (30-33 lb-ft) each).
  8. Remove the old timing belt. Keep the camshafts from turning (insert a screwdriver into the service hole of the pulley or hold the pulley with an adjustable wrench), then remove the camshaft pulley bolts (tightening torque 70-75 N·m (52-55 lb-ft)). Remove the pulleys.
  9. Replace the camshaft seals: pry out the old ones with a flat-head screwdriver and press in the new ones with the driver (dull the edges of the driver with a file so it does not damage the rubber). Replace the crankshaft seal in the same way, after first removing the crankshaft timing belt sprocket.
  10. If you are replacing the water pump, remove the 4 mounting bolts (tightening torque 10-14 N·m (7-10 lb-ft)), take off the pump, and clean the mounting surface of old sealant. Install the new pump with a new rubber O-ring or a thin layer of sealant. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern.
  11. Install the new idler pulleys to the specified torque (40-45 N·m (30-33 lb-ft)) and use thread locker on the bolts. Install the camshaft pulleys, aligning the marks, and tighten the bolts to 70-75 N·m (52-55 lb-ft).
  12. Fit the new timing belt in the following order: crankshaft sprocket → smooth idler pulley → left camshaft pulley → toothed idler pulley → right camshaft pulley → flanged idler pulley → tensioner. The belt must run without any slack.
  13. Install the hydraulic tensioner with the locking pin still in place (do not remove the pin). Tighten the tensioner nut to 40-45 N·m (30-33 lb-ft). Turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise by hand. The marks must return to their original positions. Only then remove the locking pin from the tensioner.
  14. Turn the crankshaft two more turns and confirm that all the marks line up. Install the timing covers, tightening to 5 N·m (44 lb-in), and the crankshaft pulley, tightening to 120 N·m (89 lb-ft) (lock the crankshaft).
  15. Reassemble everything in reverse order: fender liner, wheel, radiator with fans, upper hose, engine undercover. Refill with coolant and reconnect the battery terminal.
  16. Start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature, and check for coolant and oil leaks around the seals. Listen to the timing drive: there should be no unusual noises.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The EJ204 is an interference engine. If the belt breaks or the timing marks are set incorrectly, the valves hit the pistons, which leads to expensive cylinder head repairs. Always check the marks after every crankshaft rotation. The camshaft pulleys (especially on the right cylinder head) are made of a brittle alloy, so do not drop them and do not subject them to impact. When tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt, lock the flywheel securely, because the torque is high. If you are not confident in your skills, go to a repair shop: a mistake can mean a complete engine overhaul.
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