← Corolla Toyota Corolla repair manuals →
Autopapyrus · Toyota Corolla (E140/E150)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/corolla/wheel-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Corolla (E140/E150): Wheel Replacement

The Corolla E140/E150 with the 1.3 VVT-i engine uses a 5x100 bolt pattern, a 54.1 mm center bore and M12x1.5 lug nuts. New wheels must match these specs, as well as the offset (ET) and the tire seat diameter. Before buying, compare the tire size and offset with your original wheels. A noticeably different offset or width worsens handling and wears out the wheel bearings faster.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-60 minutes (4 wheels, including balancing) Steps: 11

Part

№PartAlternatives
01 Wheels 5x100, 54.1 mm center bore, M12x1.5 lug nuts, size R14-R16 Replay, SKAD, Kosei, K&K

Tools

7
  • Jack and jack stands
  • lug wrench or 21 mm socket (19 mm on some vehicles)
  • torque wrench
  • wheel chocks
  • wire brush
  • copper grease
  • wheel balancing machine (at a tire shop)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 16 more. See manuals →

Step by step

11 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level, hard surface, put it in first gear, set the parking brake and place chocks under the wheels on the other axle.
  2. While the wheel is still on the ground, loosen the lug nuts half a turn without removing them.
  3. Raise the corner you are working on with the jack at the factory jacking point (the reinforced rocker panel next to the notches), back it up with a jack stand and remove the wheel. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  4. If the wheel is stuck, tap the tire from the inside with a rubber mallet. Do not hit the wheel itself.
  5. Clean the hub mounting surface and the centering ring (hub pilot) of rust and dirt with a wire brush. Apply a thin layer of copper grease to the pilot. Do not put grease on the stud threads or the lug nuts.
  6. Inspect the studs and lug nuts. Replace any with damaged threads or deformed seats. Alloy wheels require lug nuts with the correct seat type and length.
  7. If you are replacing only the wheel, have the tire removed and mounted on the new wheel at a tire shop. Install a new valve stem or sensor if equipped, and be sure to balance the wheel.
  8. Place the wheel on the hub, thread all the lug nuts on by hand and snug them lightly in a crisscross pattern.
  9. Lower the vehicle so the wheel is on the ground, then tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern with a torque wrench to 103 N·m (76 lb-ft).
  10. Repeat the same on the remaining wheels. Recheck the torque after 50-100 km. Alloy wheels can settle.
  11. Check the tire pressure against the placard on the door pillar and, if you changed the wheel size, have the alignment checked.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not tighten the lug nuts all the way with an impact wrench. It deforms the wheel and the brake rotor (causing brake pedal and steering wheel pulsation). If vibrations appear at speed after installation, have the wheel rebalanced. When changing wheel size, make sure the wheel does not rub against the caliper, the fender well or the shock absorber, and that the overall outer diameter of the wheel does not differ noticeably from the original, otherwise the speedometer will read inaccurately.