Volkswagen Pointer (Ford Escort-based, Brazil/Argentina) 1.8 AP (2004): Engine and Transmission Removal and Installation

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

• Engine hoist (crane) or inspection pit
• jack stands
• socket and wrench set 10-19 mm
• Torx and XZN (triple square) sockets and bits for the driveshaft and subframe fasteners
• breaker bars
• pry bar
• syringe or drain pan
• tags and a marker for wiring and hoses
• straps or chains for slinging the engine
• transmission jack

1. Preparation. Park the car on a level surface and chock the wheels. Loosen the front wheel nuts. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, then remove the battery together with its tray.
2. Remove the engine undertray (skid plate) if fitted. Drain the coolant from the radiator and engine block, and drain the engine oil. Drain the transmission oil if you plan to replace it or replace the driveshaft seals.
3. Remove the hood: mark the hinge positions with a marker, have a helper hold the hood while you undo the mounting bolts, and set the hood aside. This makes working with the hoist much easier.
4. Remove the air filter with its housing and the air ducts, and disconnect the throttle cable and the crankcase ventilation hoses from the throttle body.
5. Disconnect the cooling system hoses: the upper and lower radiator hoses, the heater hoses and the expansion tank hose. Remove the radiator together with the fan, or leave it on the body if it is not in the way. Disconnect the electric fan connector.
6. Fuel system. Relieve the pressure in the system (remove the fuel pump fuse or relay and run the engine until it stalls). Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses. Have plugs and rags ready, because fuel will spill out.
7. Electrical. Label and disconnect the connectors for the injectors, ignition coil and sensors (crankshaft position sensor, coolant temperature sensor, oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, idle control valve, knock sensor), the ground wires on the body and engine, and the alternator and starter wires. Move the engine wiring harness aside and secure it so the hoist doesn't snag it.
8. Remove the drive belt and the exhaust system: disconnect the downpipe from the manifold and from its hanger. If there is a catalytic converter, remove it carefully, as it is fragile.
9. Disconnect the clutch cable (or hydraulic line: on the AP 1.8 the clutch can be cable-operated or hydraulic; with a hydraulic cylinder, unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission without opening the line). Disconnect the shift linkage and the speedometer cable (if mechanical) or the vehicle speed sensor connector. Disconnect the reverse light switch connector.
10. Steering: if the power steering is hydraulic, disconnect or move aside the power steering pump together with its hoses, without draining the system unless necessary. If the car has A/C, unbolt the compressor and tie it aside without opening the refrigerant circuit.
11. Remove the front wheels. Disconnect the lower ball joints or the stabilizer bar links, press out the joints, and pull the inner CV joints of the driveshafts out of the transmission. Hang the driveshafts from wire and do not let the inner joints bend too far. Plug the openings in the transmission with clean plugs so you don't lose oil or let dirt in.
12. Remove the starter if it is in the way of removal and, where possible, the bell housing bolts that are accessible from the outside.
13. Sling the engine from the factory lifting eyes on the cylinder head and bring in the hoist. Take up the slack in the straps slightly so the assembly is supported but not lifted.
14. Unbolt the powertrain mounts: the right engine mount (belt side), the left transmission mount and the rear torque rod. It is better to remove the brackets from the body first and leave the bracket bolts on the engine and transmission attached to the assembly so they don't get lost.
15. Slowly lift or lower the assembly (whichever method suits your equipment), watching the clearances: wiring, hoses, body panels and brake lines must not catch. Take the engine-and-transmission unit out of the engine bay. Do not put any load on the transmission input shaft.
16. Installation. Before installing, check that everything is present and replace all used seals. Apply a thin layer of grease to the input shaft splines and make sure the clutch disc is centered (if you disassembled the clutch). Lower the assembly into the engine bay and carefully line up the mounts. Thread all mount bolts in by hand first, then tighten them fully with the assembly under load.
17. Tightening torques: transmission-to-engine bolts, approximately 45-65 N·m (33-48 lb-ft); powertrain mount bolts per specification, on average 40-90 N·m (30-66 lb-ft) (different bolts have different values); wheel nuts, 110 N·m (81 lb-ft). Check the exact value for each mount against the manufacturer's specification, as they vary with bolt size.
18. Insert the driveshafts into the transmission until the retaining rings lock, reconnect the ball joints and tie rod ends, tighten the fasteners within the specified ranges, and fit cotter pins or new self-locking nuts where required.
19. Install the starter, the exhaust system with new gaskets, the drive belt, the radiator and the hoses. Connect the fuel hoses and check that the clamps are secure.
20. Reconnect all the electrical connections according to your labels: nothing should be left unplugged. Check the ground wires. Reconnect the cables and the clutch linkage and the shift linkage. Adjust the clutch pedal free play.
21. Refilling. Fill the engine and transmission with oil to the correct level and fill with coolant. Connect the battery.
22. First start. Turn the ignition on for a few seconds so the fuel pump builds pressure, and check the fuel lines for leaks. Start the engine and warm it up until the fan comes on. Bleed the cooling system (remove air pockets through the expansion tank, lifting a hose slightly if necessary). Check the coolant and oil levels, look for leaks, and check the clutch and all gears. Check that there are no diagnostic trouble codes.
23. After a test drive of 10-20 km, recheck the fluid levels, look for leaks and check the tightness of all connections, especially the downpipe and the mounts.

• Working on the fuel system requires caution: keep gasoline away from sparks and open flame, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby
• The assembly weighs roughly 150-200 kg: use only a serviceable hoist and reliable straps, never stand under a suspended load, and always support the car on jack stands
• After work on the driveshafts, ball joints and tie rod ends, check the tightness and the condition of the cotter pins, and if you lack experience, leave this part to a repair shop
• Exact tightening torques for the individual mount and subframe bolts on this model are not documented in publicly available service materials, so ranges are given here
• Check the details against the manufacturer's specification