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Autopapyrus · Changan CS55 (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/changan/cs55/outer-cv-joint-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Changan CS55 (1st generation): Outer CV Joint Replacement

Replace the outer CV joint if it clicks or crunches in turns with the steering wheel turned, if the boot is torn and grease is leaking out, or if there is play when accelerating hard from a stop. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials. Below is the general procedure for front-wheel-drive crossovers with McPherson strut suspension. Torque values are given as ranges, so check the exact values against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 2-3 hours per side Steps: 14

Parts

5
№PartAlternatives
01 Front outer CV joint with boot and greaseleft and right, as needed; type depends on transmission (manual or automatic), CS55 1.5 Turbo GKN, Ruville, SKF
02 Axle nutif needed
03 Cotter pinif needed
04 Retaining ringif needed
05 Boot clampsif needed

Tools

12
  • Jack and jack stands
  • lug wrench
  • 17 mm and 19 mm sockets
  • socket for the axle nut (usually 32-36 mm)
  • torque wrench
  • long breaker bar or ratchet
  • pry bar
  • ball joint separator (or a hammer and brass drift)
  • pliers
  • rags
  • wire brush
  • grease gun or tube of grease

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on level ground, engage a gear (or P), and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the side you are working on, then remove the cotter pin or bend back the lock tab on the axle nut.
  2. While the vehicle is still on its wheels and a helper presses the brake pedal, loosen the axle (hub) nut. The torque is high, so you need a long lever. The nut is often single-use and should be replaced.
  3. Raise the front of the vehicle, set it on jack stands (do not work on a jack alone), and remove the wheel.
  4. If there is a plastic engine undercover, remove it. Place a drain pan under the transmission: a little oil may leak out when the inner CV joint is pulled out of the transmission.
  5. Remove the nut from the lower control arm ball joint stud and press the stud out with a separator. Alternatively, disconnect the tie rod end and the sway bar link if they get in the way of swinging the hub out.
  6. Swing the steering knuckle outward and carefully push the splined outer end of the axle out of the hub. If it will not move, tap it through a brass drift, or tap the end of the axle through a soft-metal spacer. Do not hit the CV joint itself or the wheel bearing.
  7. Pull the axle out of the hub and, supporting it, pull the inner joint out of the transmission with a firm, smooth pull toward you. Hang the axle from the body with wire so it does not hang from the inner joint.
  8. Open the boot clamps and slide the boot along the shaft. The outer CV joint usually comes off the shaft with a hammer blow to the joint housing through a soft spacer, because it is held on by a retaining ring. Do not hit the cage.
  9. Inspect the axle splines and the inner joint. Clean the old grease off the shaft. If the inner CV joint has play or the inner boot is torn, replace it at the same time.
  10. Slide on the new boot (with new clamps), pack the new CV joint with the grease from the kit, and push it onto the shaft until the retaining ring clicks. Check that it does not come off when you tug on it by hand. Tighten the boot clamps in place, without overtightening.
  11. Insert the axle's inner splined end into the transmission as far as it goes (check that it has seated on its retaining ring). Guide the outer end into the hub, then reassemble the ball joint, tie rod end and sway bar link.
  12. Tighten the ball joint and control arm fasteners to specification: the stud nut is usually 50-90 N·m (37-66 lb-ft), depending on the design (check the exact value against the manufacturer's specifications). Tighten the new axle nut to about 200-300 N·m (148-221 lb-ft) (per specification) and lock it with the lock tab or cotter pin.
  13. Install the engine undercover and the wheel, lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to about 100-130 N·m (74-96 lb-ft) (per specification). Check the transmission oil level and top it up to the proper level if any was lost.
  14. Test drive: at low speed, make full turns left and right. The clicking should be gone. After 50-100 km, recheck the lug nut torque and check for leaks and play.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not reuse the axle nut after removal if it has a self-locking knurled collar
  • If it is not tightened correctly, the wheel bearing will fail
  • This job involves the steering and suspension, which are safety systems
  • If you lack experience or a torque wrench, have a repair shop do it