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Autopapyrus · Kia Rio (1st generation, DC)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/rio/driveshaft-cv-axle-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Rio (1st generation, DC): Driveshaft (CV Axle) Replacement

Replace the whole driveshaft if the boot is torn and the CV joint is already clicking in turns, or if you have developed play and vibration under acceleration. The inner end of the shaft sits in the differential on a retaining ring and is popped out with a sharp pull using a pry bar. Exact torque values for this vehicle are not fully confirmed in publicly available sources, so ranges are given below. Check the manufacturer's service manual for precise figures.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-3 hours per shaft Steps: 15

Parts

5
№PartAlternatives
01 Front driveshaft assembly (left or right)matched to your transmission (manual or automatic) and ABS or non-ABS version; number of teeth on the ABS tone ring on the outer CV joint must match GKN/Spidan, Metelli, Maxgear
02 Transmission axle sealleft and right
03 Hub nut (new) or cotter pin
04 Manual transmission gear oilfor topping off, if manual transmission
05 Automatic transmission fluid (ATF)for topping off, if automatic transmission

Tools

11
  • Lift or jack with jack stands
  • 32 mm socket (hub nut)
  • 17/19 mm sockets
  • lug wrench
  • pry bar or large flat pry tool
  • hammer
  • ball joint separator or brass drift
  • torque wrench
  • transmission support stand
  • drain pan
  • syringe or funnel for topping off transmission fluid
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 6 more. See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, put it in gear (or P on an automatic), and secure it with wheel chocks. Remove the wheel cover, and use a chisel or screwdriver to flatten the staked part of the hub nut, then loosen the lug nuts.
  2. While the wheel is still on the ground, loosen the hub nut (32 mm) while a helper presses the brake. The torque is high, so use a long breaker bar. Do not remove it completely.
  3. Raise the front of the car, remove the wheel, and remove the engine undercover (if fitted).
  4. Drain the transmission fluid. You can skip draining if you position a pan and install the new shaft quickly, but some fluid will still be lost. After the replacement, check the level and top off if necessary.
  5. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle: remove the clamp bolt (17 or 19 mm) and push the control arm down with a pry bar. Alternatively, disconnect the tie rod end and the stabilizer link if they are in the way.
  6. Fully remove the hub nut and pull the outer CV joint out of the hub by tilting the knuckle slightly outward. If the fit is tight, use a brass drift and light hammer taps on the end of the splines (protect the threads by threading the nut on).
  7. While supporting the outer end of the shaft, pry the inner CV joint out with a pry bar placed between the transmission case and the CV joint housing. Pull outward with short, sharp jerks, and do not pull on the shaft itself. Be careful not to damage the seal or the differential housing.
  8. The left and right driveshafts differ in length. The right one often runs through an intermediate support (support bearing). If the support is worn, replace it separately. Compare the new shaft with the old one for length and splines.
  9. Replace the transmission axle seal with a new one. Lubricate the lip with gear oil and drive it in evenly with a seal driver, without tilting.
  10. Insert the inner end of the new shaft into the differential until it clicks: the retaining ring must seat in the groove of the side gear. Pull the shaft toward you by hand: if it comes out, the ring has not seated. Repeat. Do not strike the boot with a hammer.
  11. Guide the outer end into the hub, reassemble the ball joint (clamp bolt approximately 50-70 N·m (37-52 lb-ft); confirm the exact value in the service manual), and reinstall the other parts you removed.
  12. Tighten the hub nut with the car back on its wheels. The torque for this joint is approximately 180-240 N·m (133-177 lb-ft); confirm the exact value in the service manual. Lock the nut by staking it or with a new cotter pin.
  13. Install the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, approximately 90-110 N·m (66-81 lb-ft) after lowering the car.
  14. Check the transmission fluid level (manual: up to the lower edge of the fill hole; automatic: on the dipstick with the engine warm) and top off if necessary.
  15. Test drive: check for no vibration, no clunking in turns, no fluid leaks at the seals, and that the ABS works (no warning light).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job involves the steering and suspension, so if you lack experience, it is better to go to a repair shop
  • Never drive with a hub nut that is under-tightened or not locked: the wheel can come off
  • Do not overload the wheel bearing by hammering on the hub when pressing out the shaft; it is better to use a puller or a drift