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Chery Tiggo 4 1.5 Turbo (2024): Accessory Drive Belt (Alternator Belt) Replacement

The 1.5 Turbo uses a single serpentine belt that drives the alternator and other accessories. Replace it if you see cracks, separation, oil stains, squealing, or worn ribs. The job doesn't require removing the engine, but you need careful access to the tensioner. The exact routing diagram and belt size aren't given in publicly available materials, so take a photo of the old routing before removal.

DifficultyMedium Time40-90 minutes Steps14

Parts

3
№PartAlternatives
01 Serpentine (poly-V) accessory drive belt (alternator, coolant pump) for 1.5 Turbo enginematch rib count and length to the old belt AlternativesGatesContitechBosch
02 Automatic drive belt tensionerif worn AlternativesGatesContitechBosch
03 Drive belt idler pulleyif worn AlternativesGatesContitechBosch

Tools

6
  • Socket set and ratchet
  • wrenches
  • long breaker bar or a special tool for turning the tensioner pulley
  • flashlight
  • marker or chalk
  • jack and jack stands (if you need access from below)

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Shut off the engine and let it cool down. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. If needed, remove the plastic engine cover and the engine bay undercover. If access is poor, remove the right front wheel and the fender liner. If you raise the car with a jack, always support it on jack stands.
  3. Inspect the belt for cracks, tears, separation, melted ribs, and signs of oil or coolant. If the belt is soaked in oil or coolant, fix the leak first, or the new belt will fail quickly.
  4. Photograph or sketch the belt routing over the pulleys. Mark the belt's position on the crankshaft, the alternator, and the other pulleys.
  5. Locate the tensioner: a spring-loaded pulley with a square or hex opening for a wrench. Fit a wrench or breaker bar on the pulley and turn it against the spring pressure until the belt goes slack. Hold it in that position.
  6. Slip the belt off the most accessible pulley, for example the alternator, then slowly release the tensioner.
  7. Check the pulleys and idlers. Spin them by hand: they should turn smoothly, without noise, play, or binding. Clean any dirty grooves. Replace a noisy or wobbly idler or tensioner along with the belt.
  8. Compare the new belt with the old one: the length, width, and number of ribs must match.
  9. Install the new belt following the routing diagram. First put it on all pulleys except the last accessible one, and make sure the ribs sit in the grooves.
  10. Turn the tensioner again, slip the belt onto the last pulley, and slowly release the tensioner.
  11. Check the fit: the belt should sit evenly in the grooves, without twisting or ribs sticking out. Turn the crankshaft by hand one or two revolutions using the pulley bolt, and make sure the belt doesn't slip off.
  12. Reinstall everything you removed. Tightening torques for the undercover, fender liner, and wheel fasteners should follow the manufacturer's specifications. For wheel bolts, it is usually 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft) (approximate). If you replaced the tensioner or an idler, tighten their bolts to the specified torque as well.
  13. Reconnect the battery, start the engine, and let it run for 1-2 minutes. Listen: there should be no squealing or grinding, and the belt should not wander. Make sure the battery charge light is off.
  14. Recheck the belt after a few days of driving.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Work only on a cold engine with the engine off, and keep your fingers away from the space between the belt and the pulley
  • Check the tightening torques and exact belt size against the manufacturer's specifications, as there is no public data for this version
  • If you aren't sure of your skills, have a repair shop do the job
  • The timing belt is a separate component, and if it is damaged the engine can be damaged, so do not use this guide to replace it