Autopapyrus · Citroën C4 (2nd generation) 1.6 115 (2015)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/citroen/c4/clutch-kit-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/citroen/c4/clutch-kit-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Citroën C4 (2nd generation) 1.6 115 (2015): Clutch Kit Replacement
Replacing the clutch on a C4 II with the 1.6 115 hp engine is done with the transmission removed. The job is labor-intensive and requires a lift. Before starting, make sure you have a conventional manual transmission and not a robotized (automated manual) one: the robotized unit has its own clutch actuator and requires adaptation after replacement. The exact procedure for this model and engine is not documented in publicly available service materials, so the general principle for PSA front-wheel-drive cars is given below. Check torque values against the manufacturer's specifications.
Parts
2- 🔩 clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing) for your engine and transmission. Manufacturers: LuK (Schaeffler), Sachs, Valeo. Also needed: transmission input shaft seal, crankshaft seal on the flywheel side (as needed based on condition), transmission oil. If your version has a dual-mass flywheel, replace it together with the kit if it is worn: play, noise, vibration at idle. For diesel versions the kit is often bought with a new flywheel
- 🔩 for gasoline 1.6 engines the flywheel is in most cases a single-mass type
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more.
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Step by step
15 steps- Put the car on a lift, in neutral. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the engine undertray and the wheels.
- Remove the air filter with its housing and air duct. Remove the battery and its tray if they get in the way of access to the transmission. Disconnect the wiring harnesses from the transmission (reverse light switch, ground wires) and note their positions.
- Drain the transmission oil if you plan to replace it or if it would leak out when the driveshafts are removed.
- Disconnect the gear selector and shift cables or rods. On models with a hydraulic clutch actuator, remove the slave cylinder or disconnect the line, depending on the design of your version. Do not press the clutch pedal while the cylinder is disconnected.
- Remove the starter. Hang or support the engine from above (support bar) or from below with a stand, with a wooden block under the oil pan. Without a reliable support, the engine will drop when the transmission mount is removed.
- Disconnect the lower ball joints or control arms and pull the driveshafts out of the transmission. Hang the shafts on wire so they do not hang on the joints. Plug the openings in the transmission.
- Remove the transmission mount and bracket. Remove all the bolts securing the transmission to the engine, including the lower ones. Bring up the transmission jack and secure the transmission with a strap.
- Carefully pull the transmission back along the input shaft axis, without letting its weight load the shaft, until the shaft clears the disc. Lower the transmission and set it aside.
- Mark the position of the pressure plate relative to the flywheel with paint. Loosen the pressure plate bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern, then remove the pressure plate and disc.
- Inspect the flywheel: cracks, heat discoloration, and deep scoring, and on a dual-mass flywheel play and grease leakage, mean it must be replaced. Light marks can simply be cleaned up, but do not resurface the flywheel without checking tolerances. Check the crankshaft seal and the transmission input shaft seal for oil leaks and replace them if necessary, otherwise the new disc will quickly become oil-contaminated.
- Wipe the flywheel surface with brake cleaner. Install the new disc the correct way round (the marking Getriebe-seite or Gearbox side faces the transmission) and center it with the alignment tool. Bolt on the pressure plate in a crisscross pattern in several passes and tighten with a torque wrench to specification. Do not leave grease or fingerprints on the friction surfaces.
- Replace the release bearing (on kits with a concentric slave cylinder, the bearing and cylinder are a single unit, so replace it as a whole). Apply a thin layer of special high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines and remove any excess. Do not over-grease: the excess will get onto the disc.
- Reinstall the transmission, bringing it up evenly along the axis, with no load on the input shaft. If the shaft does not go in, turn the crankshaft slightly using the pulley bolt, or turn the transmission shaft by engaging a gear. Do not pull the transmission in with the bolts by force, as this breaks the pressure plate and the housing.
- Tighten the fasteners for the transmission, mount, driveshafts, arms, and starter. Reconnect the cables or rods, the clutch actuator, and the connectors. Fill the transmission with oil to the proper level, and bleed the hydraulic clutch actuator if you opened the line.
- Check pedal travel and full clutch disengagement with the engine running and the wheels chocked. For the first 500-1000 km, drive gently: no hard launches or clutch slipping, so the disc can bed in.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Working under a raised car and handling a heavy transmission (several tens of kilograms) is dangerous: use a lift or reliable supports, and a transmission jack with a strap. If you lack experience, leave the job to a repair shop. If you have a robotized transmission, have the replacement done only at a shop with diagnostic equipment, since the clutch requires adaptation.
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