Autopapyrus · Haval Jolion 1.5 Turbo 143 hp (2026)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/haval/jolion/knock-sensor-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/haval/jolion/knock-sensor-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Haval Jolion 1.5 Turbo 143 hp (2026): Knock Sensor Replacement
The knock sensor is a "microphone" on the engine block. The engine control unit uses it to detect harmful combustion knock in the cylinders and retards the ignition timing. When it fails, the Check Engine light comes on, the engine loses power, and fuel consumption rises. 2026 front-wheel-drive models kept the same 1.5 Turbo 143 hp engine. The sensor is mounted on the engine block, often under the intake manifold, so reaching it may require removing some parts. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in open sources, so the general principle is given below, and the torque values are approximate.
Part
| № | Part |
|---|---|
| 01 | knock sensor (piezoelectric, for the Haval/GWM 1.5 Turbo gasoline engine; aftermarket equivalents: Bosch, Hella, Denso — match to the engine) |
Tools
6- socket set and ratchet with extension
- torque wrench
- screwdriver
- multimeter (for testing)
- flashlight
- clean rags
Step by step
13 steps- Read the fault codes with a diagnostic scanner. Codes P0325-P0328 point to the sensor circuit. First rule out causes other than the sensor itself: inspect the wiring harness and connector for chafing, corrosion, and broken wires.
- Let the engine cool down completely. Turn the ignition off and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Remove the decorative engine cover. If necessary, remove the air duct and intake hoses that block access. Remember where each one goes, and don't lose the clamps.
- Locate the sensor on the engine block: a small cylinder or "puck" with one bolt and a two-wire connector. If it is covered by the intake manifold, remove the manifold as needed. Before doing so, disconnect the connectors and vacuum hoses, and plug the open ports with a clean cloth so nothing falls inside.
- Press the locking tab and disconnect the connector from the sensor. Carefully move the harness aside.
- Remove the mounting bolt with a socket and extension, then take off the sensor. Don't drop it: an impact can damage the piezo element.
- Wipe the mounting surface on the block with a clean rag. It must be clean, free of dirt, oil, and rust, otherwise the sensor will "hear" less well.
- Install the new sensor in the same orientation as the old one. Do not apply grease or sealant between the sensor and the block, and do not add washers that weren't there originally.
- Tighten the bolt with a torque wrench. Knock sensors typically use 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft); check the exact value against the manufacturer's specification. Under-tightening and over-tightening both distort the signal.
- Connect the connector until it clicks. Route the harness as it was, without tension and away from hot parts and moving components.
- If you removed the intake manifold, hoses, and air duct, reinstall them in reverse order with new gaskets. Check the clamp tightness and that all vacuum hoses are connected.
- Reconnect the negative terminal, clear the fault codes with the scanner, start the engine, and let it idle. Make sure there are no air leaks and no fault codes.
- Take a test drive under moderate load: the engine should pull smoothly, without jerking. Check that the Check Engine light does not come back on. If the fault returns, check the harness and connector, as well as the control unit.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Do not drive for long with a faulty sensor: the control unit goes into a protective mode with retarded ignition timing, and with poor-quality fuel real knock is possible, which is dangerous for the pistons
- After any work on the intake, check that the connections are airtight, otherwise you will get a fluctuating idle and fuel mixture faults
- If you are not sure about removing the manifold, leave the job to a repair shop