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Autopapyrus · Mitsubishi L200 (Triton) 2.4 DI-D 4N15 (2015)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mitsubishi/l200/coolant-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mitsubishi L200 (Triton) 2.4 DI-D 4N15 (2015): Coolant Replacement

Coolant replacement on the 4N15 engine is done every 180,000 km or 9 years (first replacement), then every 120,000 km or 6 years. The procedure involves draining through the radiator and the heater hose, flushing the system with distilled water, and refilling with new coolant while bleeding out air pockets.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 9 Tools: 10 L (2.6 gal) drain container, funnel, socket wrench or socket (size depends on the drain plug), pliers or screwdriver for hose clamps, torque wrench

Part

  • 🔩 Carboxylate-type coolant (free of silicates, amines, nitrites and borates) — Mitsubishi Motors Genuine Super Long Life Coolant Premium (blue), Castrol Radicool SF, Comma Xstream G30, Mobil Antifreeze Advanced or equivalent. System capacity 7.7 L (8.1 qt). Distilled water for flushing, 10-15 L (2.6-4.0 gal). Thread sealant 3M Nut Locking 4171 or equivalent
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 3 more. See manuals →

Step by step

9 steps
  1. Warm the engine up to operating temperature, then shut it off. Let it cool for 10-15 minutes to a safe temperature. Carefully open the radiator cap and the expansion tank cap to release the pressure.
  2. Place the drain container under the bottom of the radiator. Open the radiator drain plug (at the bottom right or left, depending on the layout) and drain the coolant. If the drain plug is missing or hard to reach, disconnect the lower radiator hose.
  3. Disconnect the heater supply hose (the right-hand fitting on the engine, on the left side near the fender, close to the EGR drive). Drain the remaining coolant from the block and the heater. This step ensures the maximum amount of coolant is drained from the system.
  4. To flush the system: insert a funnel into the disconnected heater hose or the upper radiator opening and pour in 10-15 L (2.6-4.0 gal) of distilled water. The water will flow out through the open drain points. Keep flushing until the water coming out is clear. This method is simpler than a full teardown.
  5. Close the radiator drain plug (check the service manual for the torque; typically 10-15 N·m (7-11 lb-ft) for plastic plugs and up to 20 N·m (15 lb-ft) for metal ones). Reconnect the heater hose and tighten the clamp. If there is a drain plug on the cylinder block, apply thread sealant to the threads and tighten it to 39 N·m (29 lb-ft).
  6. Pour fresh coolant in through the radiator filler neck until it is completely full. Top up the expansion tank to a level between the LOW and FULL marks.
  7. Start the engine with the radiator cap open. Let it warm up at idle until the thermostat opens (the upper radiator hose becomes hot). Raise the engine speed to 3000 rpm for 10-15 seconds several times to push air pockets out of the system.
  8. Shut the engine off and let it cool. Check the level in the radiator and the expansion tank, and top up to the proper mark (LOW-FULL). Close the caps. Check for leaks at the connections.
  9. Over the next 2-3 days, monitor the coolant level and top it up if necessary, since air may gradually work its way out of hard-to-reach areas of the system.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not open the radiator cap on a hot engine — there is a risk of steam burns. Use only carboxylate coolant free of silicates — mixing with other types can cause sludge formation and engine overheating. Dispose of old coolant at a designated collection point — it is toxic to the environment.
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