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Autopapyrus · Renault Logan (2nd generation) 1.6 8V K7M (2013)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/renault/logan/clutch-kit-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Renault Logan (2nd generation) 1.6 8V K7M (2013): Clutch Kit Replacement

The Logan with the K7M 1.6 8V engine has a single-disc dry clutch with cable actuation. Replace it as a kit: disc, pressure plate and release bearing. Do not replace them separately. The transmission must be removed for this job. The exact procedure for this variant is not fully covered in publicly available service materials, so what follows is a general sequence with typical values. Verify tightening torques against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 5-8 hours in a home garage with a lift or pit, 3-4 hours at a repair shop Steps: 19 Tools: Lift or pit, transmission jack or a reliable support stand for the transmission, support stand or bar for the engine, socket and wrench set (10-19 mm; 13 mm and 15 mm for transmission and starter fasteners), TORX/star sockets for the driveshafts, torque wrench, splined clutch alignment tool, ball joint separator or pry bar, soft mallet, clean rags, brake cleaner, drain pan for transmission oil

Part

  • 🔩 Clutch kit for the 1.6 8V (K7M) with cable actuation: pressure plate, clutch disc and release bearing (equivalent to Valeo kit 821071). Additionally, as needed: transmission-side crankshaft seal, transmission input shaft seal, transmission fluid for refilling (for the 8-valve JH/JR-type transmission, about 3.1-3.2 L (3.3-3.4 qt); verify the exact amount and specification in the service manual), flywheel if deeply scored or overheated
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface, chock the wheels and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the battery and its tray if they get in the way of accessing the transmission.
  2. Remove the engine undercover if fitted. Drain the transmission oil: remove the drain plug and wait until it has drained completely.
  3. Disconnect the speed sensor connector and the reverse light switch connector from the transmission. Remove the air filter housing or ducts if they cover the top of the transmission.
  4. Disconnect the clutch cable from the fork lever and release it from the bracket on the transmission housing. Note the position of the adjusting nut or retaining clip, if present. Disconnect the shift and selector rods or cables from the levers on the transmission. Take photos of their arrangement before disconnecting them.
  5. Remove the starter: disconnect the wires (mark their positions), remove the mounting bolts and move the starter aside. You may leave it in place if it does not interfere with removing the transmission, but it is usually easier to remove it.
  6. Raise the front of the car. Remove the wheels and disconnect the driveshaft joints from the hubs. To do this, undo the lower ball joints or tie rod ends, whichever is easier. Pull the inner joints of the driveshafts out of the transmission using a pry bar. Hang the driveshafts on wire so they do not hang from the joints. Insert plugs or clean cloth into the transmission openings to stop residual oil from leaking out.
  7. Place a support under the engine (a bar across the top or a stand with a wooden block under the oil pan). The engine must remain secured while the transmission is removed.
  8. Remove the transmission mount (right side in the direction of travel, the mount on the body), the fasteners of the transmission bracket to the engine, and the bolts connecting the bellhousing to the engine block (both lower and upper). Position a transmission jack or stand under the transmission.
  9. Pull the transmission back along the input shaft axis until the splines come out of the clutch disc, then lower it. Do not let the weight of the transmission hang on the input shaft.
  10. Mark the position of the pressure plate relative to the flywheel with paint if you will be comparing against the old pressure plate. Loosen the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern, gradually, 1-2 turns at a time, so the pressure plate does not distort. Remove the pressure plate and disc.
  11. Inspect the flywheel: deep grooves, blue heat spots, cracks or chipped ring gear teeth mean it needs to be resurfaced or replaced. Check the transmission-side crankshaft seal and the transmission input shaft seal for oil leaks. If there are traces of oil on the clutch, the seals must be replaced.
  12. Wipe the flywheel surface with brake cleaner. Do not touch the friction surface of the new disc with your hands. Apply a minimal amount of heat-resistant grease to the input shaft splines, without excess.
  13. Install the disc facing the correct direction (it usually has a marking showing which side faces the flywheel). Center it with the alignment tool on the splines, fit the pressure plate and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or three passes. Tightening torque per the manufacturer's specification (a typical reference for similar assemblies is 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft)). Remove the alignment tool.
  14. Replace the release bearing and make sure the clutch release fork and its pivot ball are undamaged and lightly lubricated. Apply the grease very sparingly.
  15. Raise the transmission and align the input shaft splines with the disc. Slide the transmission in without force, gently rocking the input shaft, otherwise you can damage the splines or deform the pressure plate fingers. Tighten the bellhousing bolts in 2-3 passes to the specified torque (a typical reference for similar bolts is 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft)), then install the transmission mount and brackets.
  16. Install the driveshafts into the transmission until the retaining rings click into place (replace the driveshaft seals if they were leaking), secure the joints in the hubs and tighten the nuts to the specified torque. Reconnect the starter, the shift linkage and the clutch cable.
  17. Fill the transmission with oil up to the lower edge of the fill hole (or to the volume given in the service manual) and install the plugs with new washers. Reconnect the sensor connectors and the battery.
  18. Adjust the clutch pedal free play. If the cable has self-adjustment, press the pedal fully several times until it settles into its working position. Check that the gears engage without grinding with the pedal depressed and that the pedal returns smoothly.
  19. Take a test drive of 10-15 km (6-9 miles): check that shifting is crisp and that there is no clutch slip in the higher gears or vibration. A new clutch needs a break-in period of 500-1000 km (300-600 miles) without hard launches or overloading.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Working under a raised vehicle and removing a heavy transmission are dangerous: use only reliable stands and secure both the engine and the transmission. If you lack experience and suitable equipment, it is better to go to a repair shop. Do not tighten the pressure plate and bellhousing bolts "by feel": over- or under-tightening causes vibration, bearing damage or a cracked clutch housing.
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