← Isis
Autopapyrus · Toyota Isis (1st generation, XM10)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/isis/rear-wheel-bearing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Isis (1st generation, XM10): Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

On the rear axle of the Isis (torsion beam), the bearing is usually supplied as a hub unit bolted to the beam. The bearing is not pressed out separately; the whole unit is replaced. Signs of wear: a hum that grows with speed and changes in turns, wheel play, and sometimes an ABS fault. Check which brake is fitted at the rear (disc or drum), since this determines the disassembly order.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-2 hours per side Steps: 14 Tools: Jack and jack stands, lug wrench, socket set and ratchet, torque wrench, breaker bar or pry bar, wire brush, copper grease for mating surfaces, penetrating oil, puller or hammer with a drift if needed

Parts

2
  • 🔩 Rear wheel hub assembly with bearing (hub unit with built-in ABS sensor or encoder). Select by VIN and side
  • 🔩 aftermarket equivalents are available from bearing manufacturers (SKF, NSK, NTN, Koyo, FAG). The OEM part costs more. Verify the exact OE number for your trim level against the VIN in a parts catalog. I am not listing one here, because a made-up number is easy to get wrong

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface and apply the parking brake (when working on the rear, place wheel chocks under the front wheels). Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel by half a turn.
  2. Lift the rear of the car, place jack stands under the sill or body, and remove the wheel.
  3. Confirm the diagnosis: rock the hub vertically and horizontally (there should be no play), spin it by hand, and listen for humming or grinding. For comparison, check the wheel on the other side.
  4. If the brake is a disc, remove the caliper: undo the two guide bolts, remove the caliper and hang it with wire from the suspension spring. Do not strain or kink the hose. Remove the brake pads and the caliper bracket. If the brake is a drum, remove the drum (if necessary, back off the shoe adjuster through the access hole and use penetrating oil).
  5. Remove the brake disc (it may be held on the hub by a retaining screw or simply stuck. Tap it with a rubber mallet or use penetrating oil).
  6. Disconnect the ABS sensor connector from the rear hub unit and carefully free the wiring from its clips. If the sensor is a separate part, pull it out of its bore without using excessive force.
  7. If the rear axle has a drum brake, disconnect the parking brake cable and the brake line from the backing plate (you do not need to undo the line if the plate can be moved aside together with the shoes; remove the shoes if necessary).
  8. Through the access holes in the hub (or, if there are none, after removing the center nut, if fitted), remove the four bolts securing the hub unit to the beam. Hold the unit so it does not fall, and remove it.
  9. Thoroughly clean the mating surface on the beam and the flange of the new unit of rust and dirt with a wire brush. Apply a thin layer of copper grease to the mating surface, keeping it off the ABS encoder and the brake surfaces.
  10. Install the new unit and tighten the four bolts in a crisscross pattern. Tighten to the manufacturer's specification. As a guide, this type of fastener is typically 60-90 N·m (44-66 lb-ft); confirm the exact value for your body version.
  11. Reinstall the backing plate, brake disc or drum, caliper bracket, pads and caliper in reverse order. Use a torque wrench to tighten the guide bolts and bracket fasteners to specification. Reconnect the ABS connector and secure the wiring.
  12. Install the wheel, lower the car, and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern with a torque wrench (for a Toyota in this class it is usually about 100-105 N·m (74-77 lb-ft); check the manual).
  13. Pump the brake pedal several times until it firms up (the pads must seat against the disc), check the parking brake, and make sure the wheel turns freely.
  14. Take a test drive of 5-10 km at low speed and check that the hum is gone and the ABS light is off. Re-torque the lug nuts after 50-100 km.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The brake system and hub are safety-critical components. If you have no experience working on brakes or with a torque wrench, have a repair shop do the job. Replace bearings in pairs on both sides if the wear has been developing for a long time or the mileage is high. Do not strike the unit itself with a hammer or put load on the ABS encoder, or it will fail and the ABS light will come on. The exact procedure for your particular Isis trim (disc or drum brakes at the rear, presence of a center nut) is not documented in open service materials, so the general principle is given above. Check the tightening torques against the manufacturer's specification.