BMW 5 Series (F10/F11): Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

• floor jack and two jack stands
• lug wrench
• torque wrench
• 7 mm socket/hex bit (caliper guide pin bolts)
• TORX (E-profile) socket set for the caliper bracket
• 16 mm or 18 mm socket for the bracket bolts (verify on the car)
• screwdriver or bit for the rotor retaining screw
• C-clamp or piston spreader
• wire brush
• brake cleaner
• copper or ceramic grease for the guide pins
• wire for hanging the caliper

1. Park the car on a level surface and apply the parking brake (on the F10 it is electromechanical, but the front axle does not depend on it). Loosen the lug bolts half a turn, lift the car at the designated jacking points and support it on jack stands. Remove the wheels.
2. Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. Some fluid will be pushed back when you retract the pistons, so if the level is above MAX, draw off the excess with a syringe to prevent overflow.
3. Find the wear sensor connector on the pad (it is fitted on one of the front wheels, usually just one). Carefully unclip the connector and free the wire from its retainers without tearing it.
4. Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts (7 mm hex), take off the caliper and hang it with wire from the spring or control arm. Do not leave the caliper hanging by the brake hose.
5. Remove the old pads and the spring clips. Inspect the guide pin boots and the hose: cracks, bulges and fluid leaks are reasons to replace the part.
6. Remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle and take off the bracket. The bolts are coated with blue thread locker, so BMW recommends using new ones.
7. Remove the rotor retaining screw and take off the rotor. If it is stuck, tap the edge with a rubber mallet after treating the joint with penetrating oil.
8. Clean rust and dirt off the hub mounting surface with a wire brush, then degrease it. Any contamination causes rotor runout and pedal vibration.
9. Remove the protective coating from the new rotor with brake cleaner. Fit the rotor and tighten the retaining screw (approximately 10-16 N·m (7-12 lb-ft); use the exact value from the service manual).
10. Install the caliper bracket and tighten the bolts. As a guide, the bracket torque is about 110 N·m (81 lb-ft), always with fresh thread locker or new bolts (use the exact torque from the service manual).
11. Clean the pad seats in the bracket, install the new spring clips, and lightly lubricate the guide pins and the contact points between the pads and clips. Keep grease off the pad friction surface and the rotor.
12. Push the caliper piston all the way in with a clamp or spreader, watching the fluid level in the reservoir. Install the pads, connect the new wear sensor (if it was replaced) and route the wire through the factory retainers.
13. Place the caliper over the pads and tighten the guide pin bolts to specification (about 30 N·m (22 lb-ft) for a floating caliper; confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual, and do not tighten by feel). Repeat everything on the other wheel.
14. Install the wheels, tighten the bolts by hand, lower the car and tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern to 120 N·m (89 lb-ft).
15. Before driving, press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm, check the fluid level and top off to MAX if needed. Make sure the pad and brake wear indicator on the dash is not lit (after a sensor replacement it goes out on its own; if it does not, check the connector).
16. Bedding-in: for about 200-300 km, avoid hard braking. Then do 5-6 moderate stops from 80 to 30 km/h without coming to a complete stop, so the pads bed in to the rotors. Recheck the wheel bolt torque after 50-100 km of driving.

• The brake system is critical to safety
• If you have no experience working on brakes or are not confident in your skills, leave the job to a repair shop
• Always replace pads and rotors in pairs on the same axle, and do not drive without checking the pedal after reassembly
• If the pad wear indicator stays on after replacement, check the sensor connector and the wire for damage
• If the pedal sinks to the floor when pressed or the brakes feel weak, do not drive the car; check the fluid level and the tightness of the connections