Autopapyrus · Changan CS55 Plus 1.5 Turbo (2023)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/changan/cs-55-plus/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/changan/cs-55-plus/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Changan CS55 Plus 1.5 Turbo (2023): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change
The 1.5 Turbo engine (JL473ZQ4) is very sensitive to oil quality: the turbocharger and the variable valve timing system need fresh synthetic oil with the correct specification. As a guideline, change the oil every 7,500-10,000 km or once a year. Under severe use (traffic jams, short trips, cold weather), it is better not to stretch the interval. The refill capacity with a filter change is roughly 4-4.5 L (4.2-4.8 qt); in the end, go by the marks on the dipstick.
Parts
3- 🔩 Oil filter for the 1.5T engine (JL473ZQ4) — genuine Changan filter or an aftermarket equivalent with the same thread size and an anti-drainback valve
- 🔩 new drain plug sealing washer
- 🔩 fully synthetic 5W-30 engine oil (a general reference for Changan turbo engines; check the exact viscosity and specification in your owner's manual). The exact OE part numbers for this engine have not been confirmed, so no number is given here
Step by step
12 steps- Warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes so the oil thins out and drains better. Shut off the engine and wait 5 minutes.
- Park the car on level ground, then raise it on a lift or drive it over a pit. Remove the engine undercover if one is fitted.
- Open the oil filler cap on the valve cover (this speeds up draining) and place the drain pan under the oil pan.
- Remove the oil pan drain plug. Keep in mind that the oil is hot. Let it drain for 10-15 minutes.
- Clean the plug and its seat, and replace the sealing washer. Install the plug and tighten it with moderate force, about 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft) (for the exact value, follow the manufacturer's specification). Do not overtighten: threads in an aluminum oil pan strip easily.
- Locate the oil filter. It sits low on the engine block or in a filter housing, so determine which type you have: a spin-on canister or a cartridge element in a housing cap. Position the drain pan and rags, because oil will spill out when you remove it.
- Unscrew the filter or the housing cap and remove the old element. For a cartridge type, replace the cap O-rings with the ones from the kit.
- Lubricate the rubber gasket of the new filter with fresh oil. Spin the canister on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten it about 3/4 of a turn more (follow the instructions printed on the filter). For a cartridge, tighten the cap to the torque marked on it or given in the service manual.
- Pour about 3.5-4 L (3.7-4.2 qt) of oil into the filler neck, wait a couple of minutes, then check the level with the dipstick. Add oil in small amounts up to the MAX mark (not above it).
- Close the filler cap and run the engine for 1-2 minutes. The oil pressure light should go out within a few seconds. Inspect the drain plug and filter for leaks.
- Shut off the engine, wait 5-10 minutes, and recheck the level on level ground. Top up if necessary.
- Reinstall the engine undercover. Reset the service interval counter through the instrument cluster menu if this function is available. Take the used oil to a recycling point.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Do not fill oil above the MAX mark: excess oil foams and can get into the intake, which is dangerous for a turbocharged engine. Do not use mineral oil or cheap "universal" blends. Do not pour the used oil from a full filter back into the filler neck. If the drain plug threads are stripped or the filter is seized, it is better to go to a repair shop.