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Autopapyrus · Dodge Stratus (2nd generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/dodge/stratus/brake-fluid-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Dodge Stratus (2nd generation): Brake Fluid Replacement

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture), so it should be replaced about every 2 years or when it turns dark. The job comes down to bleeding all four brake circuits. If no air has entered the system, the ABS unit does not need to be bled. If air has entered the hydraulic unit or the reservoir was emptied completely, you will need a diagnostic scan tool with an ABS bleed function.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 12 Tools: jack and jack stands, lug wrench, bleeder screw wrench (usually 8-10 mm), clear tubing, drain container, syringe or turkey baster for emptying the reservoir, helper for the brake pedal (or a one-person reverse bleeding kit), shop rags

Part

  • 🔩 DOT 3 brake fluid (the factory-specified standard for this model), about 1 L (1.1 qt). DOT 4 is compatible per specification, but do not mix with silicone-based DOT 5. All wheels are bled with the same fluid

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels. Loosen the lug nuts, raise the car, support it on jack stands, and remove all four wheels.
  2. Open the hood and wipe the master cylinder reservoir cap so dirt does not fall inside. Use a syringe to draw the old fluid out of the reservoir down to just above the bottom, and wipe the walls clean. Do not leave the reservoir empty, or air will enter the system.
  3. Top up with fresh DOT 3 to the MAX mark. Keep the level close to maximum throughout the procedure. Do not shake the bottle. Do not open the bottle ahead of time: the fluid quickly absorbs moisture.
  4. Clean the bleeder screws on the calipers and the rear brake assemblies. If they are seized, soak them first with penetrating oil. Do not apply excessive force, as a bleeder screw is easy to snap off.
  5. Bleed in order from the farthest wheel to the nearest: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. If the repair manual for your specific trim level shows a different sequence, follow it.
  6. Fit the tubing onto the first bleeder screw and put the other end in a container with a small amount of fluid. Your helper presses the pedal smoothly 3-4 times and holds it down.
  7. Open the bleeder screw about a quarter to a half turn, let the old fluid flow out, and close the screw before your helper releases the pedal. Repeat until clean, light-colored fluid without air bubbles comes out of the tubing. Usually 150-300 mL (5-10 fl oz) is used per wheel.
  8. Watch the reservoir and top it up after every 2-3 cycles. Move on to the next wheel in sequence.
  9. After the last wheel, close the bleeder screws. Tighten them carefully without overtightening (check the manufacturer's service manual for the exact torque). Wipe off any leaked fluid and install the dust caps.
  10. Set the reservoir level to MAX and close the cap. With the engine off, press the pedal 10-15 times, then start the engine. The pedal should feel firm and should not sink.
  11. Install the wheels, lower the car, and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. Check the service manual for the lug nut torque.
  12. Take a test drive at low speed: check braking performance, make sure there is no pedal pulsation, and look for fluid leaks around the bleeder screws. If the pedal is soft or sinks, repeat the bleeding.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The brake system is critical for safety. If you lack experience and the pedal remains soft after the job, do not drive the car and take it to a repair shop. The ABS unit cannot be bled manually without a scan tool. Brake fluid damages paint, so rinse off any spills immediately with water. Take the old fluid to a recycling facility; do not pour it down a drain or onto the ground.
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