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GAC GS8 2.0 Turbo (2024): Brake Fluid Replacement

Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Over time it absorbs water, and its boiling point drops. The maintenance schedule calls for replacement about every 2 years (service schedules for the GS8 II also list a mileage-based interval of about 20,000 km). The job is not difficult, but it is safety-critical, so work carefully and remove all air from the system.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours (with a helper) Steps: 13 Tools: Jack and jack stands or a lift, lug wrench, 8 mm or 10 mm wrench for the bleeder screws (verify the size on the car), clear hose and a container for waste fluid, syringe or turkey baster for emptying the reservoir, clean rags, a helper or a pressure bleeder, and optionally a scan tool to activate the ESP pump.

Part

  • 🔩 DOT 4 brake fluid (check the type and grade on the reservoir cap and in the maintenance schedule). You need about 1 L (1.1 qt), and it's better to buy extra

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface, turn off the engine, shift to P and set the parking brake. (If you are lifting the rear wheels, chock the front wheels.) Open the hood and find the master cylinder reservoir on the firewall on the driver's side.
  2. Wipe the cap and the reservoir neck so dirt doesn't get inside. Check the color of the fluid and the level between the MIN and MAX marks. Dark fluid means it is time to replace it.
  3. Use a syringe or baster to remove the old fluid from the reservoir down to about the MIN mark. Don't let the reservoir run dry, or air will get into the brake lines. Top it up with fresh fluid to MAX.
  4. Lift the car and remove the wheels. Find the bleeder screws on the calipers, clean off any dirt and remove the protective caps.
  5. The bleeding order usually goes from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder to the closest: rear right, rear left, front right, front left. If the maintenance manual specifies a different order, follow it.
  6. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder screw and put the other end in a container with a small amount of fresh fluid so air isn't drawn back in. Your helper smoothly presses the brake pedal several times and holds it down.
  7. Open the bleeder screw about half a turn, let the fluid flow out, and close the screw before your helper releases the pedal. Repeat until clean fluid with no air bubbles comes out of the hose. Each wheel usually takes 150-300 mL (5-10 fl oz).
  8. After each wheel, check the reservoir level and top it up to MAX. Don't let it drop to MIN.
  9. Tighten the bleeder screws without excessive force: their torque is low, and the threads in an aluminum caliper strip easily. For a reliable value, see the manufacturer's service manual. Install the caps.
  10. If air remains in the system, for example the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel, repeat the bleeding. On cars with ESP, you sometimes need to cycle the hydraulic unit with a scan tool. For a routine fluid change, though, where the system was not opened and no air got into the unit, conventional bleeding is usually enough.
  11. Set the reservoir level to MAX, close the cap and wipe up any spills. Install the wheels and tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern to the torque in the service manual.
  12. With the engine running, press the pedal 10-15 times. It should feel firm, with normal travel. Check the connections for leaks. Take a test drive at low speed with several brake applications.
  13. Take the used fluid to a collection point or recycling center. Don't pour it down the drain or onto the ground.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The brake system is critical to your safety. If you have no experience bleeding brakes, the pedal stays soft, or you doubt the result, don't drive the car. Take it to a repair shop. Don't mix fluids of different types (DOT 4 and silicone-based DOT 5 are incompatible). Don't use fluid from a container that has been open for a long time. Brake fluid damages paint, so wash off any splashes with water right away.
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