Autopapyrus · Nissan Largo (2nd generation, W20)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/largo/replacing-the-combination-stalk-switches-for-lights-and-wipers/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/largo/replacing-the-combination-stalk-switches-for-lights-and-wipers/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Nissan Largo (2nd generation, W20): Replacing the Combination (Stalk) Switches for Lights and Wipers
The combination switches on the Largo are mounted to the steering column under a plastic shroud and connect to the wiring harness through connectors. The exact procedure for this model and engine is not documented in open sources, so what follows is the general approach for Japanese vans of the same period. The sequence may differ slightly depending on how the shroud is fastened.
Part
- 🔩 Combination switch for lights and turn signals (left stalk) and combination switch for wipers and washer (right stalk). Often these are a single assembly or two separate units, depending on trim level. Match part numbers to your old switch: the connector shape and pin count must be identical
Step by step
10 steps- Turn off the engine and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Wait 5-10 minutes, especially if the vehicle has an SRS airbag.
- Point the front wheels straight ahead and lock the steering wheel. If you will not need to remove the steering wheel, its position is not critical, but it is best to keep the wheels straight.
- Remove the lower steering column cover. It is usually held by 2-4 Phillips screws at the bottom and sides. The screws are different lengths, so lay them out in the order you removed them.
- Remove the upper half of the shroud. On some trims you first need to lower the column, if it has tilt adjustment, and remove the ignition switch trim ring.
- If the steering wheel blocks access to the switches, remove the steering wheel. To do this, take off the cap or airbag (if equipped, strictly following the SRS disarming procedure), remove the center nut, and pull the wheel off with a puller or by gently rocking it. Before removal, mark the shaft and the wheel with paint or tape so you can reinstall the wheel straight. On many vans of this period the steering wheel does not need to be removed, so first check whether you can do the job without removing it.
- Locate the switch connectors under the shroud. Take a photo of the wire and connector layout, then release the locking tabs and disconnect the connectors. Pull on the connector body, not on the wires.
- Loosen the stalk's mounting screws. Usually there are one or two screws that clamp the switch to the bracket on the column, or a single screw that secures the stalk. Remove the switch together with the bracket or separately.
- Compare the new switch with the old one: shape, pin count, stalk position. Install the new one and tighten the screws snugly, but not so much that you strip the plastic.
- Plug in the connectors until they click. Temporarily reconnect the battery and test all functions: parking lights, low beams and high beams, flash-to-pass, turn signals with self-canceling, wipers in all modes, intermittent mode, and the washer.
- If everything works, disconnect the battery, reassemble the shroud, reinstall the steering wheel on your marks, and tighten the steering wheel nut to the manufacturer's specification (the exact value for this model is not given here). Reconnect the battery and check the horn and the turn signal self-canceling.
Common mistakes and warnings
- If the vehicle has a driver airbag, be sure to fully disconnect the battery and wait before removing the steering wheel. If you have no experience working with SRS, it is better to leave steering wheel removal to a repair shop. Do not pull on the wires or break the thin plastic clips on the shroud: on a 1995 vehicle the plastic is already brittle, so work carefully and, if possible, warm the trim panels with a heat gun before removing them.