Nissan Micra (K12, 3rd generation): Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

• Jack and jack stands
• lug wrench
• 17 mm and 19 mm wrenches and sockets for the ball stud nut
• a second open-end wrench for the locknut
• ball joint separator (or a hammer and a backing support)
• wire brush
• penetrating oil
• torque wrench
• marker or paint

1. Park the car on level ground, apply the parking brake, and put a manual transmission in first gear. Loosen the lug nuts on the side you are working on, raise the front of the car, set a jack stand in place, and remove the wheel.
2. Clean the tie rod threads and the locknut with a wire brush and apply penetrating oil. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
3. Use a marker to mark the tie rod next to the locknut, or measure how many threads stick out past the locknut. This lets you restore roughly the same toe setting after replacement.
4. If there is a cotter pin on the tie rod end stud, remove it. Unscrew the stud nut from the steering knuckle. If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key.
5. Pop the stud out of the knuckle with a ball joint separator. Do not hit the knuckle itself with a hammer. If you use impact, first thread the nut on flush with the end of the stud threads so you don't damage them.
6. Hold the tie rod with an open-end wrench on its flats, if it has them, and loosen the tie rod end locknut by half a turn to one turn.
7. Unscrew the tie rod end from the tie rod, counting the turns. Compare the new part with the old one for length and side.
8. Run the locknut along the tie rod and make sure the threads are clean and undamaged. Thread the new tie rod end on by the same number of turns, until it lines up with your mark.
9. Insert the tapered stud into the knuckle. Check that the boot is intact and not twisted. Tighten the stud nut with a torque wrench to roughly 30-45 N·m (22-33 lb-ft); verify the exact value against the service manual. If needed, tighten the nut slightly further until the slot lines up with the cotter pin hole, then install a new cotter pin.
10. Tighten the tie rod end locknut while holding the tie rod end so it can't rotate. Approximate torque: 30-50 N·m (22-37 lb-ft). Make sure the boot doesn't get twisted.
11. Install the wheel, lower the car, and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. The typical torque for this model is about 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft); confirm it in the service manual.
12. With the car standing still, turn the steering wheel from side to side and check for play, knocking, or binding. Then take a test drive at low speed and check the tightness again.
13. Be sure to get a wheel alignment (toe and camber) soon. The marks on the threads give only a rough setting, and without an alignment the tires will wear unevenly and the steering wheel may sit off-center.

• Steering is a safety-critical system
• If you don't have experience, leave the job to a repair shop
• A loose stud nut or locknut can lead to loss of steering control
• It is recommended to replace tie rod ends in pairs on the same axle if the other side is also worn
• If the steering wheel sits crooked after replacement or the car pulls to one side, don't put off the toe adjustment