Autopapyrus · Nissan Micra 1.2 CR12DE (2004)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/micra/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/micra/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Nissan Micra 1.2 CR12DE (2004): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change
On the CR12DE, change the oil and filter every 15,000 km or once a year. For city driving and short trips, every 10,000 km is better. The job is simple: drain the oil through the plug in the oil pan and replace the spin-on filter. Check the exact fill volume (about 3-3.5 L (3.2-3.7 qt) including the filter) against the marks on the dipstick.
Parts
3| № | Part | Genuine part no. | Alternatives |
|---|---|---|---|
| 01 | synthetic engine oil, API SL/SM or higher, ACEA A3/B4about 3-3.5 L (3.2-3.7 qt) | ||
| 02 | Spin-on oil filter for CR12DE | 15208-BN700 | Mann, Bosch, Filtron, Purflux |
| 15208-70J00 | |||
| 03 | Drain plug sealing washer |
Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.
Tools
8- 14 mm wrench or socket for the drain plug
- oil filter wrench (strap or cap type)
- torque wrench
- 4-5 L (4.2-5.3 qt) drain pan
- funnel
- jack and jack stands (or ramps)
- gloves
- rags
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 7 more.
See manuals →
Step by step
12 steps- Warm up the engine for 3-5 minutes so the oil becomes fluid. Do not let it get fully hot, to avoid burns. Shut off the engine.
- Park the car on level ground and apply the parking brake. Raise the front of the car with a jack and set it on jack stands, or drive onto ramps. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- If an engine undertray (skid plate) is fitted, remove it. Locate the drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan.
- Place the drain pan underneath and remove the oil filler cap so the oil drains faster. Unscrew the drain plug with a 14 mm wrench and let the oil drain for 10-15 minutes.
- Clean the plug and its seat, and replace the sealing washer. Install the plug and tighten it with a torque wrench to about 30-35 N·m (22-26 lb-ft). Do not overtighten, because the oil pan is aluminum.
- Move the drain pan under the oil filter. Unscrew the filter counterclockwise with the filter wrench. Oil left in the filter will run out, so keep the pan under it.
- Wipe the sealing surface on the engine block. Lubricate the new filter's gasket with clean oil, and pour a little fresh oil into the filter if it mounts upright.
- Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten it about another 3/4 turn. Do not tighten it with a tool, by hand only.
- Pour about 3 L (3.2 qt) of oil through the filler neck, wait a couple of minutes, check the level with the dipstick, and top up to the MAX mark if needed. Do not overfill.
- Close the filler neck and run the engine for 30-60 seconds. The oil pressure light should go out 1-2 seconds after startup. Check the drain plug and filter for leaks.
- Shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes, and check the dipstick level again, topping up to MAX if needed.
- Reinstall the engine undertray if you removed it. Take the used oil to a used-oil collection point. Record the mileage and date of the change.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Do not reuse the old drain plug washer, and do not overtighten the plug: the threads in the aluminum oil pan strip easily
- Do not tighten the filter with a tool, or it will be hard to remove next time
- Hot oil can cause burns
- If you are not sure the car is safely supported on stands, take it to a repair shop