Skoda Fabia (1st generation, 6Y): Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

• Jack and jack stands
• lug wrench
• XZN (triple-square) socket for the driveshaft bolt
• torque wrench
• 13-19 mm sockets and wrenches
• tie rod end puller
• bearing puller or hydraulic press with drivers sized for the bearing outer ring
• snap ring pliers
• pry bar
• wire for hanging the caliper
• wire brush
• copper grease
• thread locker

1. Park the car on level ground, apply the parking brake, and loosen the wheel bolts and the driveshaft bolt (the hub nut) while the car is still off the jack. The wheels must be on the ground. The car must not move, so place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
2. Remove the driveshaft bolt completely (on the Fabia I this is a hex-type bolt, not a nut). Then lift the front of the car, set it on jack stands, and remove the wheel.
3. Remove the caliper together with its bracket by undoing the two bolts that hold the bracket to the knuckle. Hang the caliper on wire and do not let the hose carry its weight. Remove the brake rotor (tap it lightly if needed, after removing the retaining screw).
4. Disconnect the ABS sensor and its wiring from the knuckle if it is mounted separately. Do not damage the ABS tone ring in the bearing.
5. Remove the tie rod end nut and press the stud out with a puller. Tightening torque on reassembly is approximately 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft) (use the exact value from the official specification).
6. Disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle (one clamp bolt or two bolts, depending on the version) and carefully pull the outer driveshaft joint out of the hub. Hang the driveshaft and do not let the joint bend sharply.
7. Remove the bolts that attach the knuckle to the strut and take off the knuckle together with the hub. Replace these bolts with new ones; they are tightened with an additional angle turn.
8. Secure the knuckle in a vise or on a bench. Press the hub out of the bearing; the bearing's inner ring will remain on the hub. Remove it with a puller (this will not damage the hub) or carefully cut it off with an angle grinder, without touching the hub's seating surface.
9. Remove the snap ring with pliers and press the old bearing out of the knuckle by its outer ring. Apply force only through the outer ring, otherwise you will damage the knuckle.
10. Clean the knuckle's bearing seat with a wire brush and check that it has no scoring or rust. Lightly coat the seat with a thin layer of grease.
11. Press the new bearing in through its outer ring, using a driver matching the outer ring diameter, until it stops. Install the new snap ring and make sure it is fully seated in the groove.
12. Press the hub into the new bearing while supporting the bearing's inner ring (do not press on the balls or on the ABS ring). Never press on the hub while bracing against the outer ring: the bearing will fail immediately.
13. Install the knuckle on the strut and tighten the new knuckle-to-strut bolts (approximately 70 N·m (52 lb-ft) + 90° turn; use the exact value from the manufacturer's specification). Connect the ball joint (approximately 20-50 N·m (15-37 lb-ft); the fastening differs between versions; add the angle turn if specified), then the tie rod end.
14. Insert the outer driveshaft joint into the hub and start the new driveshaft bolt by hand, then install the rotor and caliper. Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to approximately 120-130 N·m (89-96 lb-ft) (per the manufacturer's specification) and secure the ABS sensor.
15. Install the wheel, lower the car to the ground, and do the final tightening of the driveshaft bolt. It is tightened to a high torque plus an angle turn (about 200 N·m (148 lb-ft) + 90° turn; use the exact value from the manufacturer's specification). Tighten the wheel bolts to 120 N·m (89 lb-ft).
16. Pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm, and check the brake fluid level. Take a test drive: the humming noise should be gone. Recheck the wheel bolt torque after 50-100 km.

• This is a safety-related job: the bearing, caliper and tie rod end directly affect steering and braking
• If you don't have a press, experience and a torque wrench, it is better to leave the job to a repair shop
• After replacing struts and the ball joint (when the knuckle is removed), check the wheel alignment and adjust it if necessary
• Do not reuse the old single-use bolts