Autopapyrus · Toyota Camry (XV30)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/camry/drive-shaft-axle-shaft-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Camry (XV30): Drive Shaft (Axle Shaft) Replacement

Drive shafts are replaced when you hear clicking or crunching in turns, feel vibration during acceleration, have a torn boot with grease leaking out, or find play in the inner CV joint. If only the boot is torn and the CV joint is not worn, you can get by with repairing the joint, but replacing the complete shaft is usually the better value. The job can be done on a lift or on jack stands.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-3 hours per side Steps: 15

Parts

№	Part	Genuine part no.	Alternatives
01	Front drive shaft assembly (axle shaft with inner and outer CV joints), 26 splines on outer end, for 2AZ-FEleft or right; automatic or manual transmission version	43410-33240	Lemförder, GKN, Tokico
02	Inner splined end retaining ring (circlip)new	43425-28010
03	Axle nut with staked collarnew, if your axle uses one
04	Cotter pinsnew
05	Automatic transmission fluid Toyota ATF Type T-IV or WS
06	Manual transmission fluid

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

Floor jack and jack stands
lug wrench
30 mm 12-point socket for the axle nut
long breaker bar
torque wrench
12-19 mm sockets
pry bar
hammer and brass drift
ball joint and tie rod end puller (optional)
drain pan for transmission fluid
new transmission fluid
wire for hanging suspension arms

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 5 more. See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps

Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake, and shift an automatic into P. Remove the center cap or cover from the axle nut. While the wheel is still on the ground, loosen the axle nut (30 mm): first bend back the staked collar of the nut with a screwdriver or chisel. A lot of force is needed, so it is best to have a helper press the brake pedal first.
Loosen the lug nuts, jack up the car, set it on jack stands, and remove the wheel. Remove the engine undercover (splash shield) if it is in the way.
Drain the transmission fluid (drain plug on the transmission pan) so it does not run out when the shaft is pulled. If you cannot drain it, prepare plugs (stoppers or thick plastic bags with a rubber band) for the openings in the transmission and keep the car level.
Remove the axle nut completely and take off the washer.
Disconnect the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle (or disconnect the tie rod end or the stabilizer bar link if it is in the way). Replace the cotter pins and tighten the nuts to specification. Do not damage the boots.
Carefully swing the steering knuckle outward and push the splined end of the outer CV joint out of the hub. If the fit is tight, use a brass drift and light taps; do not hammer on the threads without the nut threaded on.
Left side: pry with a pry bar between the inner CV joint housing and the transmission case, and knock the shaft out of the transmission with a short, sharp motion, holding it so it does not fall. Do not pull on the shaft itself, and do not bend the CV joints beyond their permitted angle, so you do not tear the boots.
Right side: the shaft is longer, and its inner end goes through an intermediate shaft with a support bearing on a bracket on the engine. Remove the support bearing bracket mounting bolts, then remove the shaft together with the intermediate shaft or in sections, as provided by the design of your version.
Before installing, inspect the drive shaft seals in the transmission; replace them if they are leaking or worn. Lightly coat the new seals and the splines with grease. Install the new retaining ring on the inner end of the shaft.
Insert the inner end of the shaft into the transmission until the retaining ring clicks into place. Pull the shaft toward you by hand to make sure it is locked in and does not come out.
Insert the outer splined end into the hub, reconnect the lower ball joint and tie rod end, and tighten the nuts to specification (ball joint and tie rod end: torque per the manufacturer's specification; approximate values: tie rod end 45-55 N·m (33-41 lb-ft), ball joint 100-145 N·m (74-107 lb-ft)), and install new cotter pins.
Thread on the new axle nut with its washer and tighten it to 294 N·m (217 lb-ft). To do this, lower the wheel to the ground or have a helper press the brake. Stake the nut collar into the groove on the shaft with a chisel or a special staking tool so it does not loosen.
If you removed the support bearing bracket, tighten its bolts to specification (approximately 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft)). Install the engine undercover.
Fill the transmission with fresh fluid to the correct level (for an automatic, up to the mark on the dipstick or at the check plug with the transmission warm). Install the wheel and, after lowering the car to the ground, tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to about 103 N·m (76 lb-ft).
Check on a test drive: there should be no wobble or vibration, no fluid leaks from the transmission or around the seals, and no clicking at full steering lock. After 100-200 km, check the lug nut tightness and the fluid level.

Common mistakes and warnings

Never drive without the axle nut or with an under-tightened nut: the wheel bearing and hub will fail quickly, and the wheel can become unstable
Do not let the car hang from the CV joint, and do not move the car under its own power without the shaft installed, or you will damage the wheel bearing and the boots
This work involves the steering and suspension, so if you lack experience it is better to have a repair shop do it