Autopapyrus · Chery Tiggo 7 (2nd generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chery/tiggo-7/rear-control-arm-and-bushing-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chery Tiggo 7 (2nd generation): Rear Control Arm and Bushing Replacement

The Tiggo 7 rear suspension is multi-link, with several lateral arms mounted on a subframe. Worn bushings cause knocking, a "floating" rear axle and uneven tire wear. The job can be done in a home garage, but it requires carefully marking the position of the adjusting bolts and a mandatory wheel alignment afterward. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is the general principle for a multi-link rear suspension. Check torque specs against the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 2-4 hours (both sides), plus wheel alignment Steps: 12 Tools: Lift or pit, jack and jack stands, socket and wrench set (usually 15-21 mm, verify exact sizes on the vehicle), torque wrench, pry bar, bushing puller or press, penetrating oil, marker for marking the position of the adjusting cams

Part

🔩 Rear lateral control arms (upper/lower, depending on design) and their bushings. A complete arm and a separate bushing are different parts, so choose based on what is actually worn. You will need new self-locking nuts/bolts if they are single-use. OE part numbers are not listed, since the exact codes depend on the specific arm and trim level

Step by step

12 steps

Park the car on level ground and chock the wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel. Raise the rear of the car, support it on jack stands and remove the wheel.
Inspect the suspension: find the faulty arm, and use a pry bar to check for play in the bushings and in the mounts at the subframe and hub. Decide which arms you are replacing.
Apply penetrating oil to the threaded connections and wait 10-15 minutes.
If the arm has an adjusting cam or bolt (camber/toe), mark its position relative to the body or subframe with a marker so you can restore it.
Support the hub or lower arm with a jack so the spring and shock absorber cannot extend suddenly. If the arm is under spring load, do not undo it until the suspension is unloaded.
Remove the nut and drive out the arm mounting bolt on the hub side, then on the subframe side. If a bolt is seized, apply heat and drive it out carefully without damaging the threads.
Remove the arm. Compare it with the new one: the shape, length and hole positions must match.
If you are replacing only the bushing, press it out with a puller or on a press, clean rust from the seat and install the new one all the way in, without tilting. Heating the bushing or hitting the rubber with a hammer is not allowed.
Install the arm, insert the bolts and tighten them by hand. Do the final tightening with the suspension loaded: wheel on the ground, or hub under load with a jack. Tightening with the suspension hanging twists the rubber and quickly destroys the bushing.
Tighten the nuts with a torque wrench to the manufacturer's specification (for arms like these it is usually around 60-150 N·m (44-111 lb-ft), but check the service documentation for the exact value for each bolt).
Install the wheel, tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern, lower the car and fully tighten the lug nuts to specification.
Take a test drive and check for knocking and pulling. Be sure to have the wheel alignment done on an alignment rack.

Common mistakes and warnings

The suspension is a safety-critical system: errors in tightening or seating the arms affect handling. If you lack experience, leave the job to a repair shop. Do not tighten the bushings with the wheel hanging. After replacing any arm, camber and toe are thrown off, and without an alignment on a rack the tires wear out quickly.

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