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Autopapyrus · Haval M6 1.5 Turbo (2024)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/haval/m6/fuel-tank-removal-and-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Haval M6 1.5 Turbo (2024): Fuel Tank Removal and Replacement

This job involves flammable gasoline vapors, so do it on a lift in a ventilated area with no sources of sparks. On this model the tank is held by two steel straps from below, so it comes down together with the fuel module. The exact procedure for this vehicle is not documented in publicly available service materials. What follows is the general principle for a transversely mounted tank on a front-wheel-drive crossover. Check torque values against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours Steps: 15

Parts

4
№Part
01 Fuel tank assembly, Haval M6 II, 1.5 Turbo, about 55 L (58 qt)1 pc
02 Fuel module cover seal ringif needed
03 Mounting clampsif needed
04 Plastic protective clipsif needed

Tools

11
  • Vehicle lift (a pit is not suitable)
  • transmission jack or lifting platform to support the tank
  • socket set and ratchet
  • torque wrench
  • fuel line disconnect tool (quick-connect)
  • lock ring wrench for the fuel pump cover
  • hose and container for draining fuel
  • dielectric brush/rags
  • fire extinguisher
  • socket wrench for the plastic bracket
  • diagnostic scan tool

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Run the fuel down to a minimum (ideally less than 5-8 L (1.3-2.1 gal) left in the tank) and disconnect the negative battery terminal. If there is still fuel in the tank, drain it through the pump module into a can (store gasoline only in a sealed container).
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, start the engine and wait for it to stall as the remaining fuel is used up, then crank the engine with the starter for 2-3 seconds.
  3. Raise the vehicle on the lift, remove the underbody shield and, if necessary, the section of the exhaust system or heat shield that blocks access to the tank.
  4. Remove the fuel module access panel under the rear seat (if equipped) and disconnect the pump electrical connector. If there is no access panel, disconnect the connector after lowering the tank.
  5. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings of the supply line and the vapor line (charcoal canister), after marking their positions. Use the proper disconnect tool and do not use excessive force, or the fitting will crack. Place rags under the fittings, as fuel may spill.
  6. Remove the filler neck: loosen the clamp on the filler hose and disconnect the vent hose. Remove the filler neck protection in the rear left wheel arch (fender liner) and disconnect the filler pipe from the tank.
  7. Support the tank with a transmission jack or platform so it does not fall when the mounting is released. Do not rest it directly on plastic. Use a wooden spacer.
  8. Remove the bolts of the two steel tank straps (usually one bolt per strap) and carefully swing the straps aside. Then lower the tank 10-15 cm (4-6 in) and check that nothing is still connected (wiring, lines, clips).
  9. Lower the tank all the way and pull it out from under the vehicle. If necessary, disconnect the connectors and hoses that are only accessible after lowering.
  10. Remove the fuel module: mark its position, then unscrew the cover lock ring counterclockwise with a special wrench, or carefully tap it around by the tabs with a punch. Pull out the pump assembly without damaging the level sensor float. Inspect the strainer (filter sock) and replace it if necessary.
  11. Install the module into the new tank with a new seal ring (lubricate it with fuel or a clean grease suitable for gasoline, not oil), and tighten the lock ring to the standard mark/stop.
  12. Check the new tank: make sure the protective pads, heat shield and rubber supports/spacers are installed as on the old tank (transfer them from the old tank).
  13. Install the tank in reverse order: raise it with the jack, fit the straps, tighten the strap bolts to approximately 25-45 N·m (18-33 lb-ft) (exact value per the manufacturer's specifications), then connect the filler neck, fittings and connectors. Make sure the fittings have clicked into place (you should hear a click) and pull on them by hand to check.
  14. Install the shield, vent lines and fender liner. Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition on for 2-3 seconds several times to build up pressure in the fuel rail, and check for any gasoline smell or leaks.
  15. Start the engine and let it idle, then check the connections under the vehicle by eye and by smell. Read and clear any fault codes (especially for the EVAP system, if any appear after replacement).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Gasoline and its vapors are explosive: do not work near open flames, do not smoke, and do not use power tools that produce sparks
  • Keep a fire extinguisher nearby
  • Working on the fuel system and handling a heavy tank is dangerous, so if you lack experience, it is better to go to a repair shop
  • Install the new tank only after checking that the connections are leak-tight, and do not allow the fuel lines to kink