Autopapyrus · Haval M6 1.5 Turbo 143 hp (2025)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/haval/m6/knock-sensor-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/haval/m6/knock-sensor-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Haval M6 1.5 Turbo 143 hp (2025): Knock Sensor Replacement
The knock sensor is mounted on the engine block and sends the engine control unit a vibration signal, which is used to adjust ignition timing. The exact procedure for this specific model and engine is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is the general principle for inline turbocharged engines with the sensor on the block. Verify the sensor location and the order of removing adjacent components on the vehicle itself, because the sensor may be hidden under the intake manifold or tubing.
Part
| № | Part | Alternatives |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Haval 1.5T (GW4B15) knock sensor, piezoelectric | Bosch, Delphi |
Tools
7- Socket set and ratchet with extension
- torque wrench (range up to 40 N·m (30 lb-ft))
- multimeter
- OBD-II scanner
- flashlight
- plastic connector release tools
- clean rags
Step by step
12 steps- Run diagnostics. Read the fault codes with a scanner. Typical knock sensor circuit codes are P0325-P0328. Check the connector and wiring harness for breaks, chafing and oxidized contacts. Check the sensor's own resistance and signal only against the service manual data, because values differ between sensor types.
- Shut off the engine and let it cool to a safe temperature. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait 5-10 minutes.
- Remove the plastic engine cover. If necessary, remove the air duct and hoses that block access to the cylinder block.
- Locate the sensor: it is attached to the cylinder block with a single center bolt, and a wiring harness with a connector runs from it. If access is blocked by the intake manifold or tubing, remove only what is in the way. If the intake manifold has to come off, inspect or replace its gaskets.
- Press the locking tab and disconnect the sensor connector. Do not pull on the wires.
- Remove the sensor mounting bolt and take off the sensor. Do not drop it: an impact can damage the piezoelectric element.
- Clean the mounting surface on the block of dirt, oil and corrosion. The contact surface must be clean and flat, otherwise the signal will be distorted.
- Install the new sensor in the same position and with the same connector orientation as the old one. Do not put extra washers under the sensor, and do not apply sealant or grease to the contact surface.
- Tighten the fastener with a torque wrench. A typical torque for knock sensors is 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft); for the exact value for this engine, see the manufacturer's service manual. Under-tightening or over-tightening distorts the signal and causes fault codes.
- Plug in the connector until it clicks, and route the harness so that it does not touch hot manifold parts or moving components. Secure it with the factory clips.
- Reinstall the removed parts in reverse order and reconnect the battery.
- Start the engine, clear the fault codes and warm up the engine. Take a test drive under load. Use the scanner to confirm that the codes have not returned and that the knock-based ignition timing correction is within the normal range.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Do not install sensors without checking the type and connector: an unsuitable sensor gives an incorrect signal, and the engine control unit may wrongly retard the ignition timing (loss of power) or fail to detect real knock, which is dangerous for the pistons and the turbo engine. If the fault code does not go away after replacement, look for the cause in the harness, the connector or the control unit. Until the fault is fixed, do not put the engine under heavy load, and use fuel with the recommended octane rating. If you have no experience working under the hood, have a repair shop do the replacement.