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Autopapyrus · Mitsubishi ASX (Outlander Sport / RVR) 2.0 MIVEC 4B11 (2013)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mitsubishi/asx/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mitsubishi ASX (Outlander Sport / RVR) 2.0 MIVEC 4B11 (2013): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

On the 2.0 MIVEC (4B11), the oil is changed together with the filter, and the refill capacity is about 4.3 L (4.5 qt). The job is done from underneath, with the engine warm. The recommended interval is 10,000 km or once a year. Under severe conditions (short trips, heavy traffic, dust), change it more often, roughly every 5,000-7,500 km.

DifficultyEasy Time40-60 minutes Steps14

Key figures

  • Oil capacity with filterthis is how much to buy and add (step 11); buy extra oil, for example 5 L (5.3 qt)
    about 4.3 L (4.5 qt)
  • Drain plug tightening torqueset on the torque wrench in step 9; overtighten it and you will strip the threads in the oil pan
    about 35 N·m (26 lb-ft)
  • Drain plug socket sizeyou need a 17 mm socket with a ratchet (step 5)
    17 mm

Check these values against the manufacturer’s specification for your vehicle before you start.

Diagram: where the oil filler cap and dipstick are on the 2.0 MIVEC engine

View of the engine from above with the hood openMIVEC1Oil filler cap2Oil dipstick3Engine cover MIVEC4Intake duct5Battery6TankTop view, radiator on the rightTap to enlarge
  1. 1Oil filler cap: round black cap with a handle on top of the engine. Open it before draining so the oil drains faster, and close it after filling.
  2. 2Dipstick: yellow loop handle in the hole of the engine cover. Use it to check the oil level: between MIN and MAX, not above.
  3. 3Engine cover with the MIVEC lettering: it helps recognize the engine from above.
  4. 4Intake duct: a landmark next to the engine.
  5. 5Battery: a landmark at the far side of the engine.
  6. 6Tank: a landmark at the bottom left.

Parts

3
№Part
01 5W-30 engine oil for gasoline engines (check the viscosity against the oil filler cap and the owner's manual), about 4.3 L (4.5 qt) including the filter
02 oil filter for the (aftermarket options: Ryco, Mann, Sakura)
03 new drain plug washer

Tools

8
  • 17 mm socket (drain plug)
  • 10 mm socket with ratchet (skid plate bolts, if equipped)
  • oil filter wrench (strap wrench or cup-type)
  • torque wrench
  • drain pan of 6 L (6.3 qt) or larger
  • funnel
  • jack and jack stands or drive-on ramps
  • shop rags
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes so the oil thins out and drains better. Do not let the engine overheat: draining very hot oil is a burn hazard.
  2. Park the car on level ground and set the parking brake. Raise the front on jack stands or drive it onto ramps. Never use a jack alone as a support.
  3. If a skid plate is fitted underneath, remove its bolts with a 10 mm socket and take the plate off. The number of bolts depends on the trim level.
  4. Place the drain pan under the drain plug in the oil pan. Remove the oil filler cap on the engine: the oil drains faster this way.
  5. Remove the drain plug with a 17 mm socket and let all the oil drain until only occasional drops come out (usually 5-10 minutes). Be careful: the oil is hot.
  6. Move the pan under the oil filter and unscrew the filter counterclockwise with the filter wrench. The filter still holds oil, so keep it strictly upright and remove it carefully.
  7. Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with a clean rag. Make sure the old rubber gasket has not stayed stuck to the engine.
  8. Lubricate the rubber seal of the new filter with fresh oil. Spin the filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten about 3/4 of a turn more, or as specified on the filter housing. Do not overtighten with a tool.
  9. Clean the drain plug and replace the sealing washer with a new one. Install the plug and tighten it with a torque wrench to about 35 N·m (26 lb-ft) (verify the exact value against the manufacturer's specification). Do not overtighten: you can strip the threads in the aluminum oil pan.
  10. Wipe any oil residue off the oil pan and skid plate so that a leak is easier to spot later.
  11. Using a funnel, pour in about 4 L (4.2 qt) of fresh oil, wait a couple of minutes, and check the level with the dipstick. Add oil in small amounts until the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. The full capacity is about 4.3 L (4.5 qt).
  12. Close the oil filler cap. Start the engine for 1-2 minutes (the oil pressure warning light should go out within a few seconds) and inspect the filter and drain plug for leaks.
  13. Shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes for the oil to drain back into the pan, and check the dipstick level again. If necessary, top up to the MAX mark, but not above it.
  14. Install the skid plate and tighten its bolts. Dispose of the used oil and the old filter at a recycling or collection point.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not fill oil above the MAX mark: the excess foams and increases oil consumption
  • If the oil pressure light does not go out after starting, or there is a leak, shut off the engine immediately
  • Keep oil away from the accessory drive belt and the exhaust system, and if you have no experience working under a car on jack stands, take it to a repair shop