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Autopapyrus · Toyota Ist 1.5 (1NZ-FE) (2007)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/ist/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Ist 1.5 (1NZ-FE) (2007): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

The 1NZ-FE engine in the Ist takes about 3.7 L (3.9 qt) of oil when changing the filter too (about 3.4 L (3.6 qt) without a filter change). It is convenient to do the job on a warm engine. Change interval: 7,000-10,000 km or once a year. For city driving with traffic jams and short trips, it is better to change closer to every 5,000-7,000 km.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-40 minutes Steps: 13

Parts

3
№PartAlternatives
01 Engine oil (API SL/SM or newer, ILSAC GF-3 or higher)about 3.7-4 L (3.9-4.2 qt)
02 Spin-on oil filter for 1NZ-FE Toyota, Vic, Bosch, Mann
03 Drain plug gasket (copper or aluminum)

Tools

7
  • 14 mm wrench (drain plug)
  • socket or oil filter wrench (cup about 65-67 mm)
  • torque wrench
  • drain pan of 5 L (5.3 qt) or larger
  • funnel
  • rags
  • jack with jack stands or an inspection pit

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes so the oil flows more easily, then shut it off. Park the car on level ground and set the parking brake.
  2. If the car has a plastic engine undercover, remove it. If needed, raise the front of the car with a jack and be sure to support it on jack stands. Never work under a car held up only by a jack.
  3. Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap. This speeds up draining.
  4. Place the drain pan under the drain plug on the oil pan. Remove the plug with a 14 mm wrench. Be careful: the oil is hot. Let it drain for 10-15 minutes.
  5. While the oil drains, locate the oil filter (at the front of the engine block, toward the bottom) and place a pan or rags under it. Unscrew the filter counterclockwise with a filter wrench and remove it. Some oil remains inside, so keep the filter with the opening facing up.
  6. Wipe the filter mounting surface on the block. Make sure the old gasket (O-ring) has not stayed behind on the block.
  7. Lubricate the rubber gasket of the new filter with fresh oil. For a better start-up, you can pour a little oil into the filter.
  8. Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the block, then tighten it about 3/4 of a turn more (about 17-20 N·m (13-15 lb-ft)). Do not overtighten it with a tool.
  9. Clean the drain plug and the surface around the drain hole. Replace the gasket, install the plug and tighten it to about 37 N·m (27 lb-ft).
  10. Pour about 3.3 L (3.5 qt) of oil in through the funnel, wait a minute and check the level on the dipstick. Add oil in small amounts up to the mark between minimum and maximum (the total capacity is usually about 3.7 L (3.9 qt)).
  11. Close the filler cap. Start the engine and let it run for 1-2 minutes. The oil pressure light should go out 1-2 seconds after start-up.
  12. Check the filter and drain plug for leaks. Shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes and recheck the level on the dipstick, topping up if necessary.
  13. Reinstall the engine undercover and lower the car. Take the used oil and filter to a collection point for used automotive fluids.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not overtighten the drain plug: the threads in the aluminum oil pan strip easily
  • Do not reuse the old gasket, or it may leak
  • Do not fill the oil above the maximum mark, since excess oil causes foaming and increased consumption
  • If you have no experience working under a raised car, it is better to go to a repair shop