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Autopapyrus · Chrysler Town & Country 3.3 V6 (2005)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chrysler/town-and-country/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chrysler Town & Country 3.3 V6 (2005): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

On the 3.3 V6 engine, the drain plug is on the oil pan, and the filter is a spin-on type that you remove from below. The refill capacity with a filter change is about 4.5 L (4.5 US quarts). Confirm the exact amount with the dipstick marks. Change interval: 5,000-8,000 km (3,000-5,000 mi) or every six months with city driving.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-40 minutes Steps: 15 Tools: Socket for the drain plug (usually 13 or 15 mm, check against your plug), oil filter wrench (cup-type or strap-type), drain pan of 6 L (6.3 qt) or larger, funnel, torque wrench, shop rags, jack and jack stands or an inspection pit

Parts

3
  • 🔩 5W-30 engine oil (API SM/SN or newer), about 4.5 L (4.8 qt)
  • 🔩 oil filter for Chrysler 3.3/3.8 engines (spin-on)
  • 🔩 new drain plug gasket washer

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Warm up the engine for 2-3 minutes so the oil thins out. Do not overheat the engine: the drained oil will be hot. Shut off the engine.
  2. Park the car on a level surface and set the parking brake. Raise the front of the car with a jack and set up secure jack stands. A jack alone is not enough, so never get under a raised car without stands. Alternatively, drive onto ramps or over a pit.
  3. If there is a plastic skid plate under the oil pan, remove it.
  4. Open the oil filler cap on the valve cover. This lets the oil drain faster.
  5. Place the drain pan under the drain plug and unscrew the plug. Do the last few turns by hand and pull your hand away quickly, because the oil is hot.
  6. Let the oil drain for 5-10 minutes. Meanwhile, place the pan under the filter and unscrew the filter counterclockwise. Oil remains inside, so keep the filter with the opening facing up.
  7. Clean the filter mounting surface with a rag and make sure the old rubber gasket did not stay on the engine.
  8. Lubricate the rubber gasket of the new filter with fresh oil. If you can, pour a little oil into the filter to reduce dry start-up.
  9. Screw the filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten it about 3/4 of a turn more, as indicated on the filter housing. Do not overtighten it with a wrench.
  10. Clean the drain plug, install a new gasket washer, and tighten the plug to about 27 N·m (20 lb-ft). Do not tighten it "all the way": the threads in an aluminum oil pan strip easily.
  11. Reinstall the skid plate and lower the car.
  12. Pour in about 4 L (4.2 qt) of oil, check with the dipstick, and add in small amounts up to the upper mark. Do not exceed it, because overfilling makes the oil foam.
  13. Close the filler cap and start the engine for 30-60 seconds. The oil pressure light should go out within 1-2 seconds. Inspect the filter and drain plug for leaks.
  14. Shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes, and recheck the level on the dipstick. Top off if necessary.
  15. Take the used oil to a collection point that accepts used oil. Do not pour it down a drain or onto the ground.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not use oil thicker or thinner than the recommended viscosity without a reason. Do not mix different oils unnecessarily. If the oil pressure light does not go out after the change or there is a leak, shut off the engine immediately and find the cause. If you have no experience working under a raised car, have a repair shop do the job.